Originally Posted by crak600

well......

look for a big bolt, not a small one (i hope you're running at least 12 gauge wire, preferably 8 gauge, so you'll need a big bolt to work with). if you can run to a seat belt bolt or a seat bolt for the rear seats, they should work no problem. might be a pain in the you know what to get to, but it will work. make sure the area is clean and rust free first. if you can, pin it between a pair of washers as you bolt it in. what i normally do is take the copper wires and split them into 2 "fingers," then twist each one up, and wrap them around the bolt. this way, the bolt goes in evenly all the way.

have a 12V test light? if not, you can pick one up at any automotive store for $5-6. you can have all the wires hooked up, then clip the alligator lead to the ground wire and stick the tip of the test light to the bolt you think will work. should work, i've never done it, but it should work no problem.


oh, lemme give you some advice....hooking the ground wire to the chassis should be the LAST thing you do. hook up all the wires to the amp, then connect the positive to the battery, then connect ground. if the amp has a fuse you can see, pull that out before hooking up the ground wire, then put it back in afterwards (note - you can not test for power with a 12V test light with the fuse removed). i once fried an amp because i was in a hurry and was screwing the positive lead into the amp with everything else already hooked up. i accidentily touched the screwdriver to the amp and fried the amp. wasn't too big of a deal, because i bought the amp for $20 and sold it for $20 to a kid who eventually fixed it, but thought i'd let you learn from my mistake.