When your car was lowered -- assuming you did not do it yourself -- they should have done an alignment afterwards. What were your camber settings?

After my car was lowered, I was still in-spec on the driver side (both front and rear); I was in the yellow on the passenger rear, and I was in the red on the passenger front. (All negative camber, of course.)

I did the rear camber washer trick, having read that one washer works out to +0.5 degrees. So that should have moved me from yellow back to in-spec on the passenger rear. I also read that if you add only one or two washers, you can keep the stock bolts; adding more than two washers, you need to purchase longer bolts, so that the bolts don't come out! [This is from the article at team-integra.net, IIRC.]

I purchased stainless-steel washers at Home Depot.

As for the passenger front..... How much are camber kits and installation? Depends on whether you go Ingalls-style or Skunk2-style, and whether you buy name-brand vs. non-name-brand.

Roughly, Skunk2 camber kit with installation works out to about the same price as a set of tires. So do you want to fix the situation with a camber kit, or just ignore it and be able to purchase an additional set of tires?

Right now, I am rotating often, and had inner camber wear after about 15k on my ES100s. Then I rotated across (by re-mounting the tires). Not sure how many miles I will get out of the ES100s.

I am dropped less than you. Tokico package is only 1.5" drop, so my camber settings may be less extreme than yours.