Go for the digital SLR if you have the means, monkey I would, but I'm more interested in getting any video equipment I need, so my 35mm Canon and 120mm Pentax suffice.

I think I had auto-x and roadracing confused. auto-x is definitely an option. Much more tame than roadracing by comparison. Still, I wonder if it's good for the ATTS transmission to drive it so hard at low speeds. On a Base Prelude there is no issue, I'm sure. I'll look into it.

On the brakes, you've convinced me not to bother with Spoon's brake calipers. I'm disappointed, but if they really don't improve anything, you're right: They're not worth $1,500-$2,000. It's frustrating to come to the realization that there really aren't that many companies out there who sell anything useful to serious hot-rodders who want kit solutions.

I'm saving up for a Porsche :P

So it looks like the Goodridge SS lines are going to be my last upgrade to the brakes.

Thanks again, monkey!

-Craig

>>>>hehe you sure pick the expensive hobbies . between my car and my extreme desire for a D-slr, i am torn into pieces monetarily.

on auto-x: i haven't heard of an a/x wreck in a while, at least not in my region. they're generally pretty rare since the SCCA goes to great lengths to ensure some measure of safety. if anything you're hitting cones which is pretty impactless. roadracing is something totally different and can have cataclysmic circumstances. anyway if you're interested in auto-x (solo 2) look up your region's website and maybe head out there for a day and have a look at what goes on.

on the spoon calipers: brake fade isn't a major issue until you're using the brakes enough to boil the fluid. that is usually happening during open lapping or roadracing, where the high speeds and heavy braking zones coupled with 20 minute run sessions can toast your OE system. I've never heard of significant brake fade on the street, given that the system isn't malfunctioning (seized calipers). Spoon 4pot calipers might be lighter than OE, which is a plus, but may also take more fluid to actuate the calipers. If it's a big enough discrepancy, you might have to change the master cylinder and booster, but even if you don't, saving 2lbs of unsprung weight on the corners, while nice, isn't worth the $2000 price tag.

After numerous sessions at the local road courses and countless auto-x's i have yet to boil my fluid or toast my pads. maybe i'm not braking hard or deep enough but it hasn't been a problem for me yet. I'm eventually planning on using Motul RBF600 brake fluid which has a 600 degree dry boil point to prevent any chance of fade, but the stuff i have in there right now is working well enough. the biggest improvement i've felt with the brakes is when i went with a different pad. stopping distances are only as good as your tires can allow, but different pads can drastically change pedal feel which is a good thing for some people. I'm on cobalt friction GT-Sport fronts and Carbotech rear pads. OE lines, calipers, honda dot 3 brake fluid, and falken azenis.<<<<