If you've got a pretty good grasp on the idea of a lefty loosey right tighty and have a 10, 12 and 14mm sockets , your pretty much set for an engine swap. Ha ha, actually, that's a bit of a simplification and you'll also need a 17, 19 and 32mm sockets for some of the mounts and the 32 is for the axle nuts (which can be a real pain). First thing I'll recommend you do is get yourself a Helm's factory service manual.
http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=
I would seriously recommend you buy one for both your engine and your car (they're about $60 a piece plus about $6 shipping, at least they were a few years ago). Kinda pricey but worth their weight in gold when your doing a swap. The location of all the bolts that need removed are listed with drawings, the torque values you need when you put it back together, plus step by step instructions on doing pretty much everything (removing/installing an engine, timing belt/water pump, changing a clutch, complete wiring diagrams ...). I got a '92 Civic Helm's I no longer need but I'd actually rather you got a '93 edition for your car (there are probably some wiring differences my book won't have).
Basically if you follow the directions in the helms, everything is pretty much laid out for you right there. Only real issues I've come across is getting the axle nuts loose. I just changed the clutch on my '98 EX and I just soaked them in knock'r loose penatrating oil and my 1/2" impact gun zipped them right off. With my '92 CX it took 5 people, my girlfriend laying on the brakes, one guy with his foot keeping the 3/4" (we bent 2 1/2" breaker bars) 1 1/4" socket (get a 32mm, we didn't have one) another guy jamming a screwdriver into the vent on the rotor to hold it in place and me and another guy hanging on a 12' skateboard rail I used to have to get those sucker loose. That was after they had been soaked in 3 different penatrating oils, torched them and cursed at them like crazy. Before you jack the car off the ground, pull the centercap/hub caps and break them loose first. If you can't get them off, drive the car to a garage and get them to hit it with an impact gun (most 3/4" and 1" guns have no problem but occasionally a 1/2" will do it). Just tighen them down real good with a 1/2" wrench and you should get home and get them back off just fine.
Another real pain is getting the shift linkage pin out. I ususally find a bolt that's the same size as the pin, clamp it in some vice grips and hammer away. Soaking the pin in penatrating oil seems to help. Gettng the ball joints loose can be a problem sometimes too. I remove the cotter pin, loosen the castle nut and then put a jack under the rotor to get pressure on that ball joint. Slam the LCA with a hammer a few times and the vibration will pop the ball joint loose. I got pictures to do a writeup on doing those tricks when I did my clutch, but I haven't had time to do the post yet (probably soon). If your pulling the engine out through the top, if you angle it slightly so the tranny is down, it makes it much easier to remove too.
Doing an engine swap isn't as easy as changing your oil or brake pads, but honestly, that's all I had done on my Honda's before I tried my first swap and it worked out pretty well for me. I definately recommend you get those Helm's manuals and ask any questions about any steps you don't understand. I also recommend people plan for the worst when starting a swap. Don't expect to have the car finished in a weekend, so if you need a car on Monday, make plans ahead of time if something goes wrong. It's a big project but definately a rewarding one, good luck with it.