Originally Posted by Erik B
I dont know about N/A cars but OBD1 has a less agressive program for boost then the OBD2. Jotech has proven 20whp gains off just a OBD1 ECU in a Turbo TypeR. I have the OBD1 in my car (got it just preping the car for the Turbo) and it by its self didn't feel stronger at all. Matter fact with the TypeR ECU I use to rev to 8777rpm(via VAFC) vs the GSR OBD1 which has never let me touch anything over 8222 rpms. Its been like learning how to drive the car all over again. I hit that dam rev limiter aaaaaaallot since I put the ECU in but I've gotten better....I guess a shift light would come in handy....
Whoa, that's a mixed mess of misinformation and mistake...
First off, OBD1 is not a program, it's a generation of ECU, in fact the most common OBD1 ECU is not at a P72(GSR) ecu either, it's a P28, which was like a single over head cam civic from back in the day. An ECU is only that of which it is programmed. For example, if you have a P28 or P72, the ECU could have a Skunk2 program, a Mugen program, or a custom boost program, all dependent on what you put in it, almost no one uses the ECU with its stock program, as for the most part, it wouldn't run right, expecially in the case of an ITR using a P72, where the P72 was meant for a motor with a dual stage runner manifold. For cars with boost, there is no such thing as a less aggresive profile in an ECU, and actually if anything, there is more fuel. On a side note, you can also reprogram an ODB2 ecu to spec, it'll just cost you an arm and a leg as well as a nice long delay.
If you have an old P72 (GSR) ecu, and it has a 8200rpm rev limit, then you have some serious issues, and may actually be running the stock program, which isn't wise, as it has pretty much no resemblance to what your car comes with. The only purpose of running an OBD1 ECU is tunability, it allows you to change the chip to something that is more fitting of your setup rather than the stock ECU, it also allows you to only run 1 o2 sensor and no cat if you so choose. Your stock ECU will be best for a virtually stock car, until you get into internals, becuase for the most part, it compensates for little changes such as intake, exhaust, headers, and so on.
So, your comment about it not feeling stronger, is more than likely, becuase it's not, or not substancialy, often times people think that just switching to OBD1 itself will give you horse power, when it fact, it's not the case. Frequently the only thing it does is allow for higher rpm and less restriction with respect to sensors and changes, this is why it is so much easier to tune an OBD1 car, especially with boost as a factor.
Later,
Aj