Ok to start with I have verified that even the low comp B20b is an interference motor.

When I pulled the valve cover the two cams were 180 degrees off. The stripped belt was at the crank.

As near as I can figure (meaning this is my best guess) I think I know what happened. When I installed this motor I used a cap and rotor from Shucks (Checker/Kragen your choice.) When I had this problem I pulled the cap and the rotor was hanging loose even though the screw was still tight. The plastic had separated from the metal that screws on. This allowed the rotor to swing in a large arc. There is a plastic ridge inside the cap that has a chunk out of it. I assume the rotor swung and caught on the ridge and stopped the cam. The cam stopped but the crank was turning the belt so the belt stripped. The rotor then let go so the cam could turn again.
The crank continued to turn the belt until the stripped part got to the crank. Then of course it could go no farther. This loosed the cams and they settled at a closed position because of the valve spring pressure.

I checked the valve clearance and all were in spec so I chanced it and installed a new belt. And of course a cap and rotor. Also of course this time I used quality Acura parts. The diff in the Shucks rotor and the Acura rotor is noticeable. Both visible and the Acura part is heavier.

Now the car is running good and has no noises. It also runs better than before due to the bad cap and rotor before.

Moral of the story?
ALWAYS USE QUALITY PARTS!!!!!