the project is almost done... it took a couple of days becase

i live in maui hawaii and its been pouring rain here over the past week and it still is, it should clear up by tommorow tought, so that slowed us down, MAJORLY! its a pain to wrentch in the pouring rain. Also, I havent been online in a couple of days to post info...

im going to post info on this because in a way its hard to find info on swaps, so i hope this helps others in the future.

on the swap =

y8 everything, d16z6 block......

the brand new d16z6 head gasket didnt work, it speuu'd oil and coolant everywhere (from all parts of the head and block at the head gasket area) and raped the oil pan and coolling system with a nasty coolant / oil mixture, i dont know why, yes we did check for warpage and everything was torqued properly. after multiple flushing and system cleaning, we used a y8 head gasket on the d16z6 block
(note= the gaskets on the y8 and z6 look the same, but i found out that the y8 gasket is thicker and "ups" the comperssion a litte more) and it worked cherry=the auto parts store had no problem with taking the z6 gasket back.

oil pan= we had to use the z6 oil pan on the z6 block = we tried to transfer the y8 oilpan onto the z6 block BUT there are 2 oil pan bolts that DO NOT align near the trannie/flywheel=so we stayed with the z6 oil pan.

thermostat housing, waterpump pipe area that attaches to the block= we had to use the y8 setup on the z6 block because the y8 setup we worked on has 2 vacuum hoses that is attached to this assembly(1 attaches to the intake manifold in between piston 2 and 3 along with the egr, and that other vacuum line and the other went into the intake) if i had a pic it would be easier to explain. I did search the net but the y8 setups i found were differnt than this one... the pics i found didnt have this 3rd line that we were working with. the z6 coolant/waterpupm pipe and thermostate assebly DOES NOT have the vaccuum valves.

oil dipstick. this guy was kinda anal and wanted his stock headers covered, so on the d16z6 the dipstick is in the middle of piston 2/3 and the exhaust headers. the y8 dipstick is on the side near the belts; the y8 dipstick is LONGER than the z6, you have to use the z6 dipstick and we had to cut the heat sheild/make a hole for the z6 dipstick to be removed and insearted without unbolting the heatshield= keep in mind after you make your measurements and cuts that z6 dipstick will fully seat bu will be about 4 cm's away from the heat shiled, it doesnt touch at all but it looks trippy.

theres going to be a couple of mounts that attach to the trannie and block that your not going to need anymore becasue they wont fit on the z6 bloc and reach the y8 trannie . you probably could use the z6 mounts but we didnt care, the flywheel shield is up and the other stock y8 mounts are cherry on the z6 block. these mounts are located around the area where you z6 block and y8 trannie meet.

if your curious= the y8 started reaches the z6 block fine, so i would imagine that the z6 starter would be fine as a swap in.

there is a knock sensor on this y8 block, its right above the oil filter and about 1 inch down from the top of the block and where the head gasket is and i think its either in between piston 2/3 or on piston 2 area. if i remember correctly, in this area for this y8 block there is the block coolant drainage bolt, oil filter pressuer sender, knock sensor, oil filter, block breather assembly box

I we didnt get a chance to play with the krank and knock sensor / CEL situation becase we had to do a couple of other things= install an alram and a bunch of shizz....



one recent problem noticed today = we were about the rejuice his ac system and noticed, whenever he hits the ac button and turns on the blower in the dash, coolant starts to leak at a moderate drip pace from around the area of the alternator. we didnt get a chance to address the issue because it was 5 and thats another day. strange, why would it leak coolant from there whenever we turn on the ac system? non of the ac lines run through that area and the only coolant line there is the waterpump assembly/pipe that leads to the thermostate housing. i think it could be leaking from there, any ideas anyone?

i'll post more info as i go with the days of work, dude has his car and is driving it, im going to continue the research on the AC rpob and the CEL light based on those 2 sensors. im thinking we might have to bolt the knock sensor into the block and the krank sensor... aaaaaahhhhh maan... thats another time.

FYI= in maui HI there practically is no emission laws (in oahu, HI there is) its awesome that we can pass emisson with only a muff and all pipes! i know a couple of peops that passed inspection with open down pipes on boost without a muff=but the cops do write off tickets if you get pulled for speeding or loud exhaust though.... :-}