You can definitely do one wheel at a time but it's really best to have the car on a block or jack stand for at least the one wheel you're working on. That way you have the jack free to lift the knuckle/spindle and apply load to the suspension before tightening everything up. You can pick up small hydrolic jacks and 2 ton jack stands for pretty damn cheap at wal-mart.

Here is one of my posts from another thread which deals with this issue a little on the front struts...

First slip your strut up into the strut tower and put the two bolts on loosely not tight yet....then slip the fork onto the bottom of the strut and don't put the pinch bolt in yet because you'll want to line up your strut and place the suspension under load before tightening anything...once you get the fork on the strut allign the holes through the fork with the lca and shimmie or lightly hammer the bolt through while doing the shimmie with the hub/rotor too...put the nut loosely on the other side of the bolt through the fork....now everything should be in loosely....shimmie the strut to get it good and straight making sure that the sping is sitting properly in the seat of the strut (end of spring coil against the notched rise in strut seat)....apply a load to the suspension by placing a jack under the knuckle/spindle and jacking it up until you see the car lift slightly off of your jack stand to make sure the damper is under load and everything is firmly seated... then tighten the bottom nut & bolt on the lca put the pinch bolt in and tighten it then put the wheel on and bring the car back down on the ground...tighten the top two bolts on the strut tower once it is on the ground and your ready to roll.

The important thing is to grease the two bussings and sleeve at the top of the strut to avoid any squeking.

If you need help in the rear let me know :naughty: lol