You may have to remove one of the rubber hangers too just to give you some room to play but there is definitely no reason to remove everything completely. If you do this and have the front of your car on blocks or jack stands then you will have plenty of room to wiggle the pan out from between the block and exhaust.

You should have like six or so nuts and the rest bolts. You'll want to remove all of the bolts first then remove the nuts last and do the reverse when putting the pan back on. The purpose is this... the studs coming off of the block and through the pan that the nuts are on serve as a guidance for you to put the pan back on straight. Once you slip the pan over the studs coming off the block, put your nuts on just shy of tight. That way it alligns the pan and you can put the rest of the bolts in without having to hold the pan with one hand and straighten it out with the other while you're struggling to get the holes to line up.

When you tighten them they should technically be torqued to 9 lb-ft. If you dont have a torque wrench, tighten them by hand but don't make them gorilla tight or you risk causing the gasket to go bad and start leaking again. Once the nuts/bolts are firmly seated just give a few small cranks with the rachet to get them tight.

You should also apply liquid gasket to two points on the regular gasket between the gasket and the block. The two points are on the opposite side of the pan away from the side of your motor where the belts are(the passenger side. You should see a dip in the pan along the pan seat where the gasket is. On both sides of the dip, just before the dip apply a small bead of liquid gasket.