how so? My immobilizer still works. It would take at least 15 minutes to get to where my other key is(takes me me a few hours to take the dash apart enough to get to the guts of my alarm which is also where the key is). If it's started and you open the door without the remote it sets off the alarm and the engine dies and the alarm sounds. If you set off the inner proximity sensor without first disarming the alarm with the remote the engine dies and the alarm sounds. If you step on the brake pedal or try to put the car in gear while it's remote started the motor dies and the alarm sounds. While the alarm is armed and the remote start isn't engaged the immobilizer is fully functional. Meaning even if you could figure out a way to get into my car and bypass both the starter kill and fuel cut from my alarm, you still won't be abel to get passed the immobilizer, even if you do find the key, because the key is encased in copper weave and aluminum with 2 ton epoxy and JBweld surrounding that with just two little wires coming out of it, and you'd really have to understand what I did before you could use the two wires because it does no good to put the block of epoxy up to the shift column because it's shielded. Or if you use the thing in the second link on my last post it stores the code electronically and will "lose" the code if someone breaks in. I don't get how it defeats the purpose of the immobilizer?