Harumph! Sounds like your base idle is low.

Usually the IAC code is flagged when the ECU can't get your idle under control. 95% of the time it's because the throttle body is dirty, or the bypass ports are obstructed. It sees the engine idle speed and adjusts according to whether your idle is high or low. If it tries to adjust the idle and runs out of room to do so, then it just blames the IAC and throws a code 14 even if something else is the culprit. :eh:

What RPM is your idle when the car is warmed up? If it's low, scrape all the goop that Honda put over the Base Idle Set Screw on the throttle body, and back it out a tad. That will allow more air to get by the (bottom) bypass port, raising the idle, and taking the load off of your AIC a bit. If your idle is high, screw it in a bit. Once you have it in range, goop that screw again with some RTV or silicone. It keeps it from leaking air, or falling out.

The important thing is to match what RPM your hot idle is supposed to be. If it gets finicky, unplug the electrical connector from the AIC while making adjustments to the BISS screw and get it in range, then plug the AIC back in.

Another thing worth inspecting is the AIC ports inside its flange. Unbolt it, don't drop the gasket. It has a screen on the intake side, and it can get clogged if funk blew past your throttle body bypass. It's cleanable (is that a word?) with carb cleaner. Before you bolt it back on, take your intake pipe off and move it out of the way, then blow compressed air through the intake port (closest to the TB). Anything that could be blocking it should come out.

These things rarely go bad. I'd hate to hear that your're in that uncommon demographic. I know they're like $190 at the cheapest places because I had a lot of trouble with mine after I swapped my engine. After studying this thing for a month, I figured out I had the IAT and AIC connectors switched backwards.
:doh: