Diy Grounding Kit?
05-17-2003, 08:17 PM
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Diy Grounding Kit?
can someone tell me the grounding points for a 99 civic ex? the motor is a d16y8 and i want to know where the grounding points are. i've seen kits out there where you just ground some points on your engine and your engine will run better or something. this will be a good DIY since it is very low priced and adds some performance. i would like to see a DIY on this.
05-20-2003, 05:44 AM
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mystikz2002,
Uh, adds performance? I don't think so. If your ground connections are dirty or unstable your engine won't run properly, but having them clean and tight will get the thing running the way it's supposed to.
I think there are two grounding points, one on the starter of course and the other on the valve cover. Both go to a nearby section of the frame.
Make sure you clean down to bare metal where you are bolting the ground wires to and a dab of di-electric grease certainly won't hurt anything. I'll usually use the Dremel to clean off the paint and get a good ground.
Bogatyr
Uh, adds performance? I don't think so. If your ground connections are dirty or unstable your engine won't run properly, but having them clean and tight will get the thing running the way it's supposed to.
I think there are two grounding points, one on the starter of course and the other on the valve cover. Both go to a nearby section of the frame.
Make sure you clean down to bare metal where you are bolting the ground wires to and a dab of di-electric grease certainly won't hurt anything. I'll usually use the Dremel to clean off the paint and get a good ground.
Bogatyr
05-20-2003, 02:46 PM
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Hyper Ground/ Earthing kit ground points
1) battery to chassis ground (opposite the battery... Also, covers 1 of the big 3)
2) battery to intake manifold
3) intake manifold to opposite side of the engine head (in the front)
4) from the engine head to the tranny
5) from the engine head back to the battery
It's one big daisy chain. 6/8 AWG power wire should suffice...
While you're at it... You might as well address the Big 3 just in case you have dimming lights whenever your bass hits HARD.
1) #1 from above
2) engine to chassis ground
3) alternator to battery cable run
1) battery to chassis ground (opposite the battery... Also, covers 1 of the big 3)
2) battery to intake manifold
3) intake manifold to opposite side of the engine head (in the front)
4) from the engine head to the tranny
5) from the engine head back to the battery
It's one big daisy chain. 6/8 AWG power wire should suffice...
While you're at it... You might as well address the Big 3 just in case you have dimming lights whenever your bass hits HARD.
1) #1 from above
2) engine to chassis ground
3) alternator to battery cable run
05-20-2003, 10:11 PM
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Hi I was just wondering if any problems would arise if I were todo the following earthing setup:
1. Attach a negative-battery-terminal distribution block with 4 - 8 gauge wire distribution holes.
2. Then attach 4 cut-to-length 8 gauge wires to the distribution block
3. And from there, after properly routing them, just attach each of the other ends of the wires to stock grounding spots and perhaps other chosen spots.
Would anything bad happen if you were to just not use the frame of the car as a conductor is mainly what I am asking...
1. Attach a negative-battery-terminal distribution block with 4 - 8 gauge wire distribution holes.
2. Then attach 4 cut-to-length 8 gauge wires to the distribution block
3. And from there, after properly routing them, just attach each of the other ends of the wires to stock grounding spots and perhaps other chosen spots.
Would anything bad happen if you were to just not use the frame of the car as a conductor is mainly what I am asking...
05-28-2003, 08:14 AM
#7
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OK, to help you guys understand what the grounds are for...
Your car has a battery with + and - terminals. The - (negative) terminal is connect to the chassis for a reason. That way only positive power cables need to be run to all the parts of the car. ie. all your lights are grounded to the chassis, there's a little ground box all your black wires from the lights go to, without the chassis grounded, NOTHING WILL WORK!
To try and gain performance through grounding you need to follow this:
1) make sure you have a good battery! (have it tested if you are not sure)
2) Check the actual connections at the battery, not just to the posts, but the wires at the battery connectors, these can corrode!
3) Check the battery ground. This should be 4gauge. It is overkill, but this wire will hold a lot of current, so there is no reason to skimp. Make sure the cable is attached at a clean, ie. no paint, or scraped surface on the chassis. The more surface area the better. Adding a second ground will not hurt, if you are unsure of the first, add one.
4) undo every engine ground you can find, one at a time and re-scrape the grounding point to make sure it has a good connection, then reconnect it.
5) if the wires on your grounds are dark, ie. not shiny like copper should be, either cut the wire back to a fresh portion, or REPLACE the cables.
6) Replace any sketchy cables with 8gauge cable, for the short runs these cables have, it is more than enough, trust me, for less than 2 ft, 8gauge is plenty. Arospeeds kit is way overkill and is just made to look nice. You can make your grounds look nice with cool looking cable and descent routing methods.
7) Add a ground or two. Just run 8gauge cable from the chassis to an extra spot or two on the engine or tranny. Using either an intake manifold bolt, or valve cover bolt, run a ground to the chassis, ie. the stut tower (don't forget to scrape the paint)
8) if your lights dim at idle, check the tension on the alternator belt, it will make sure the alternator is getting driven.
MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS WELL GROUNDED
Jung
Your car has a battery with + and - terminals. The - (negative) terminal is connect to the chassis for a reason. That way only positive power cables need to be run to all the parts of the car. ie. all your lights are grounded to the chassis, there's a little ground box all your black wires from the lights go to, without the chassis grounded, NOTHING WILL WORK!
To try and gain performance through grounding you need to follow this:
1) make sure you have a good battery! (have it tested if you are not sure)
2) Check the actual connections at the battery, not just to the posts, but the wires at the battery connectors, these can corrode!
3) Check the battery ground. This should be 4gauge. It is overkill, but this wire will hold a lot of current, so there is no reason to skimp. Make sure the cable is attached at a clean, ie. no paint, or scraped surface on the chassis. The more surface area the better. Adding a second ground will not hurt, if you are unsure of the first, add one.
4) undo every engine ground you can find, one at a time and re-scrape the grounding point to make sure it has a good connection, then reconnect it.
5) if the wires on your grounds are dark, ie. not shiny like copper should be, either cut the wire back to a fresh portion, or REPLACE the cables.
6) Replace any sketchy cables with 8gauge cable, for the short runs these cables have, it is more than enough, trust me, for less than 2 ft, 8gauge is plenty. Arospeeds kit is way overkill and is just made to look nice. You can make your grounds look nice with cool looking cable and descent routing methods.
7) Add a ground or two. Just run 8gauge cable from the chassis to an extra spot or two on the engine or tranny. Using either an intake manifold bolt, or valve cover bolt, run a ground to the chassis, ie. the stut tower (don't forget to scrape the paint)
8) if your lights dim at idle, check the tension on the alternator belt, it will make sure the alternator is getting driven.
MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS WELL GROUNDED
Jung
05-28-2003, 10:34 AM
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very well put JUNG4G, ur car chassis is the ground for all ur electrical components so no u cannot remove that chassis out of the circuit loop, to do so would require alot more wires, which would defeat the purpose entirely, just clean up the connections that are sketchy, and if u want get a battery with slightyly more cca's (cold cranking amps) to make sure u get power thru whatever old wires u do have. to gain power you would need a completely seperate ignition system to get a larger spark into ur engine, grounding ur car is just for basic maintanance, oh and avoid butt connectors, they cause alot of resistance, buy the right connectors, and dont hack the wires u do have.
06-01-2003, 09:10 PM
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How about using 2-guage wires? I've seen it done here:
http://www.cardomain.com/id/linnfreak
Anyways, how about:
1. Upgrading all "wimpy" ground wires to 2-guage, including the "big 3"
2. Add additional ground wires that run to the negative terminal of the battery (possibly using a distribution block)
3. Run a ground wire from the alternator's metal body to either the chassis, or the negative terminal post.
4. smearing all ground points with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
All wires would use good quality connectors and heat-shrink.
sound good?
http://www.cardomain.com/id/linnfreak
Anyways, how about:
1. Upgrading all "wimpy" ground wires to 2-guage, including the "big 3"
2. Add additional ground wires that run to the negative terminal of the battery (possibly using a distribution block)
3. Run a ground wire from the alternator's metal body to either the chassis, or the negative terminal post.
4. smearing all ground points with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
All wires would use good quality connectors and heat-shrink.
sound good?