SRS light
06-06-2005, 09:03 AM
#2
Apathy Kills
...while the car is in motion?
Or only when you start the car up?
(Please do not be so vague.)
Or only when you start the car up?
(Please do not be so vague.)
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06-06-2005, 03:48 PM
#4
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The supplemental restraint system could be diagnosed just like an ABS or Check engine light problem. I'd recommend you leave that up to an Acura dealer though.
The SRS has about 27 DTCs, more then half of them would require an SRS unit replacement as a corrective action. There's also a memory erase signal 2p connector.
If it occasionally comes on instead of staying on I would imagine that it's an intermittent failure that could possibly be erased.
The SRS has about 27 DTCs, more then half of them would require an SRS unit replacement as a corrective action. There's also a memory erase signal 2p connector.
If it occasionally comes on instead of staying on I would imagine that it's an intermittent failure that could possibly be erased.
06-06-2005, 04:03 PM
#5
Apathy Kills
Carta's right. The SRS doesn't have a lot of repairable components. This is one of the systems that you really ought to have a dealer or qualified mechanic repair.
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06-07-2005, 04:19 AM
#6
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You could be an idiot like me....
the first time I ever saw the SRS light come on, and my car kept beeping whenever I threw the ignition, while I was working on disconnecting my antenna...
my car'd beep and show the SRS, and I was liek "Huh?"
I'm an idiot because it was doing it since my seatbelt wasn't buckled up...
Until I was worknig on that antenna, i'd never turned the key without have already been buckled up... hah.
I guess that's not a bad thing though, cuz i'm all safe-like and stuff.
Maybe you've made the same mindless mistake?
Just tossing it on the table since you were vague about the problem.
the first time I ever saw the SRS light come on, and my car kept beeping whenever I threw the ignition, while I was working on disconnecting my antenna...
my car'd beep and show the SRS, and I was liek "Huh?"
I'm an idiot because it was doing it since my seatbelt wasn't buckled up...
Until I was worknig on that antenna, i'd never turned the key without have already been buckled up... hah.
I guess that's not a bad thing though, cuz i'm all safe-like and stuff.
Maybe you've made the same mindless mistake?
Just tossing it on the table since you were vague about the problem.
06-07-2005, 05:35 AM
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SRS light.....
I apologize for being vague... I was hoping there would be a simple answer--there rarely is.
This is what's going on.... Occassionally while driving, the ABS and SRS light would come on, first the ABS then the SRS. Usually, the radio was on and the antena would begin to retrack and or sound-like it was "skipping" and then immediately extend back to position. Power in the electrical components would typically dim or demonstrate the strain of temporay loss of juice, i.e., the A/C would be on, headlights, etc. After the power drop, the lights would occassionally go off.
I suspected that the altenator was not producing enough charge and/or the battery was not holding a charge. I had the alt. charge checked, however, charge was taken at the battery posts. The test reflected a normal charge, but definitely at the lower end of normal. Test was conducted with headlights, A/C and radio all on. I guess I should have tested at the altenator and not the battery, however, it was more readily accessible. I suspected maybe the regulator was not functioning properly, but, correct me if I'm wrong, the regulator in Teg is within the alt.... and would have to replace the alt to replace the regulator. I check the battery fluid levels, they were low. I added distilled water to the fluids and now the abs light does not come on, the radio no longer "skips" and the antena stays posted although there is still a "strain" for juice with everything on.
More commonly the SRS light comes on while I am driving for no apparent reason. If at a stop light, with the SRS light on, the brake pedal goes soft as if the brake master cylinder is failing/leaking. However, when the SRS light is not on, usually the brake pedal is firm.....
Thoughts??!?!
This is what's going on.... Occassionally while driving, the ABS and SRS light would come on, first the ABS then the SRS. Usually, the radio was on and the antena would begin to retrack and or sound-like it was "skipping" and then immediately extend back to position. Power in the electrical components would typically dim or demonstrate the strain of temporay loss of juice, i.e., the A/C would be on, headlights, etc. After the power drop, the lights would occassionally go off.
I suspected that the altenator was not producing enough charge and/or the battery was not holding a charge. I had the alt. charge checked, however, charge was taken at the battery posts. The test reflected a normal charge, but definitely at the lower end of normal. Test was conducted with headlights, A/C and radio all on. I guess I should have tested at the altenator and not the battery, however, it was more readily accessible. I suspected maybe the regulator was not functioning properly, but, correct me if I'm wrong, the regulator in Teg is within the alt.... and would have to replace the alt to replace the regulator. I check the battery fluid levels, they were low. I added distilled water to the fluids and now the abs light does not come on, the radio no longer "skips" and the antena stays posted although there is still a "strain" for juice with everything on.
More commonly the SRS light comes on while I am driving for no apparent reason. If at a stop light, with the SRS light on, the brake pedal goes soft as if the brake master cylinder is failing/leaking. However, when the SRS light is not on, usually the brake pedal is firm.....
Thoughts??!?!
06-07-2005, 05:37 AM
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One other thought, the antena did not completely retrack one time, and I made a stupid move and forced the antena down. The next time I started the car the antena went all the way up, but did not retrack to the off position......
06-07-2005, 09:41 AM
#9
Apathy Kills
This sounds more and more like a charging issue or a continuity issue. 
h:
I'd remove your alternator and take it to a place like Auto Zone or Kragen.
Get it tested to see if it is producing the right amount of power.
If the alternator checks out, then I'd confirm continuity with both the power and ground cables. Then I'd check the battery voltage with the motor off and on. If the battery connections aren't solid, then the alternator may not be able to effectively recharge the battery and support the "load" of all the vehicle's electrics.
The SRS system (airbags) and the ABS system (anti-lock brakes) have their own diagnostic computers, separate from the Vehicle ECU. So there should be no correlation between the SRS light and a limp brake pedal.
The brake booster relies on engine vacuum, so if the motor stumbles due to poor spark (again..we are getting back to the electrical system) then that might cause the mushy pedal feel. Alternatively, the master cylinder seals may be aged to the point where they're leaking and unable to produce full line pressure.
Give me a second and I'll see what's up with the voltage regulator... I honestly don't remember whether it's an internal component to the alternator or not.h:
h:I'd remove your alternator and take it to a place like Auto Zone or Kragen.
Get it tested to see if it is producing the right amount of power.
If the alternator checks out, then I'd confirm continuity with both the power and ground cables. Then I'd check the battery voltage with the motor off and on. If the battery connections aren't solid, then the alternator may not be able to effectively recharge the battery and support the "load" of all the vehicle's electrics.
The SRS system (airbags) and the ABS system (anti-lock brakes) have their own diagnostic computers, separate from the Vehicle ECU. So there should be no correlation between the SRS light and a limp brake pedal.
The brake booster relies on engine vacuum, so if the motor stumbles due to poor spark (again..we are getting back to the electrical system) then that might cause the mushy pedal feel. Alternatively, the master cylinder seals may be aged to the point where they're leaking and unable to produce full line pressure.
Give me a second and I'll see what's up with the voltage regulator... I honestly don't remember whether it's an internal component to the alternator or not.
h:
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06-07-2005, 09:59 AM
#10
Apathy Kills
So for a 1997 Integra, the alternator should crank out 13.5V at 90 Amps.
The regulator is an internal component within the alternator -- but it looks like it can be replaced independently of the alternator.
To test the regulator:
Bring the motor up to 3000 rpm with no load [in idle or P] until the radiator fan comes on. At that point, let the motor return to idle.
Check the voltage at the battery. If voltage exceeds 15.1V at 2000rpm - with all other electrical systems turned OFF - then the regulator needs replacing. Doing so involves dismantling the alternator, so it may be cheaper in terms of time and effort to replace the alternator/ regulator assembly atogether.
Oh, I had forgotten to ask...how old is the car? Mileage?
The regulator is an internal component within the alternator -- but it looks like it can be replaced independently of the alternator.
To test the regulator:
Bring the motor up to 3000 rpm with no load [in idle or P] until the radiator fan comes on. At that point, let the motor return to idle.
Check the voltage at the battery. If voltage exceeds 15.1V at 2000rpm - with all other electrical systems turned OFF - then the regulator needs replacing. Doing so involves dismantling the alternator, so it may be cheaper in terms of time and effort to replace the alternator/ regulator assembly atogether.
Oh, I had forgotten to ask...how old is the car? Mileage?
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