Mid9Joker

Hi guys, it has been quite a long time since I post, it has been so long that i even forgot my password to my old user name, so i had to register a new one, but i been on this board for around more than 2 years, so before i started anything just wanna say it feels good to be back.
I got myself a 95 LX automatic, i'm done with my exterior mods with a whole lot of shaving and a whole lot of molding, and now i'm looking for a little go, after lot of researching and reading, i decided to go with N2O.
My questions here are:
1) I have read alot and some say that N2O will blow your engine evetually no matter how many shots you're running due to the higher temperature the engine has to put up with, and then some says the only way n2o will damage your engine is due to detonation otherwise you'll be fine, which of these is true?
2)Should i go with dry or wet? I kinda prefer dry b/c wet is just too much of an hassle to install.
Sorry the post is kinda long, i'm just wanna make sure of things before i go rushing into a store get a kit and just slap it on, i always do research before i do something.


Vince N.

AcsRcool

Nos kills everything eventually. The smaller the shot, the longer it will last, but eventually, your engine will die. If you decide to go with it anyway, go dry, wet is a ***** to install not to mention more expensive.

Mid9Joker

here what www.n2o.org got to say
"Will nitrous hurt my engine?

First, realize that nitrous oxide does not damage parts. Detonation and extreme lean conditions are what cause parts to fail while nitrous is being used.

Second, start with a sound engine. If you have bad rings or valve seats and are already experiencing detonation, no matter how minor, then you will most certainly find yourself buying some new engine parts down the road because of the damage which may occur when you use your nitrous kit.

Third, check the engine to make sure that it is remaining healthy while the nitrous is flowing. Checking the plugs after nitrous passes is a good idea for all power levels. If you notice that part of the electrode is partially missing or complete gone then you need to check your combination and correct whatever problem exists. Also look for Dis-coloration and aluminum deposits (or ``purple boogers'' as they are more frequently called in racing circles).

As with any other performance enhancing product, damage may occur. The most common part failures when using nitrous oxide are broken ring lands and ``windowed pistons'' (those with holes in them), and the possibility of a backfire through the intake. Follow the basic rules and your engine happily coexist with your nitrous system."

The Dude

dont call it NAWSSSSSS, thats a brand.

If you get the electronics to conrtol the engine mixtures and go with a 50ish shot of nitrous and your engine is in good condition you should be straight

SWOOSHER21

dry is harder to install. wet just goes through the intake. for the dry, you have to drill the intake manifold and can be very costly if you dont know how to do it.

dantastic

not quite, dry is when nitrous is sprayed in before the throttle body, while wet is then fuel and nitrous is sprayed at the same time. when you drill into the intake manifold, thats direct port nitrous (which is also wet b/c it sprays fuel too). NOS makes these coool nozzles that fit between the fuel injector in the intake manifold so u dont have to drill into the i/m anymore.

bonestock

wet kit is better. the nx stage 1 wet kit isnt that hard to install and ive heard its way better than zex and other dry kits. im doing my homework on getting a NX wet kit.

SWOOSHER21

my friend had the stage one wet NX kit on his civic before swapping in a B18B. its now on my friends tiburon. it worked really well. with a 75 shot, he ran 14.6 with stock d16 motor (whatever motor is in the 97 HX)

Mid9Joker

I was thinking of getting a ZEX kit b/c so far i heard they're the safest, i was going to run 35 shots but i'm still thinking about that, for current engine mods all i have is an aem short ram, custom 2-1/4" catback with custom dual obx muflers. As in for electronics to conrtol all i can think is a V-AFC, will someone with deep knownlegde shine the light for me?

93accord

I think I made this point in the last nitrous thread but I will repeat it here. A dry kit will in fact cause your motor to blow sooner than a wet setup will because of the way that the nitrous is injected. It is a constant spray into the intake manifold which is pressurized between 900 and 1000 psi. When it gets injected into the manifold it rushed down to the last cylinder where the majority of the nitrous gets sucked into the motor. This causes that cylinder to get a lot more nitrous than the first cylinder inline which means the first cylinder is going to run extremely rich. Some rich cylinders and some lean cylinders = not a good idea. Wet setup sprays an equal amount into each intake port on the intake manifold cause even distribution of the nitrous and all cylinders run at the same air fuel mixture level, meaning less of a chance of detonation, and less of a chance of blowing your motor. Yes a wet setup is harder to install, but it is well worth it....