How to change front rotors on a 93 (90,91,92?) accord!!!! Instructions inside!!!
08-18-2002, 06:38 PM
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How to change front rotors on a 93 (90,91,92?) accord!!!! Instructions inside!!!
I just did mine..............what a learning experience!!!!
Tools:
Ball joint separator, Hub puller/pusher, 36mm socket, 10mm, 14mm, and 17mm sockets w/ extension, big ass breaker bar (to attach to end of rachet for more leverage), can of PB blaster, hammer, and an open shop that can press a bearing for you (car quest, napa), 3/8 and 1/2 driver ratchet
Obtaining tools:
Go to Murrays or Autozone to rent ball joint separator, hub puller/pusher, and 36mm socket.
Instructions:
1. Remove wheel (aka take off lug nuts)
2. Spray PB blaster on steering knuckle ball joint, Upper ball joint (there is a cap over the nut so use 10mm socket to remove cap then spray), lower ball joint, and the four 14mm bolts in the middle by the axle nut, and axle nut itself.
3. Use 17mm socket w/ breaker bar to take lower bolt off caliper to remove pads and use 17mm socket w/ breaker bar to remove caliper bracket. Get a box/jackstand to place the caliper on after removal.
4. Take 10mm socket and remove the metal bracket holding the brake line to the arm. ( gives more slack in brake line and is necessary to take arm off)
5. Use 36mm w/ breaker bar to remove hub nut (aka spindle nut or axle nut) and 14mm w/ breaker bar to remove the 4 bolts in the middle
6. Remove cotter pins in upper, lower, and steering knuckle ball joints and use 17mm w/ breaker bar to remove all 3 nuts
7. Using the ball joint separator w/ hammer, separate steering knuckle ball joint, Upper ball joint, and lower ball joint ( in that order) Let rest in lower ball joint.
8. Using hub pusher/puller, fasten on to lug bolts and slowly push out axle.
9. Take the entire arm w/ new rotor and the 14mm bolts from the middle that you removed to a shop that can press out the bearing and put on new rotor ( should be like $70 for both)
10. The installation is the reverse
11. The other side is kinda tricky because when you are trying to remove the axle and 14mm bolts in the middle, the axle will rotate. Stick one of the ball joint separators on the back side of the rotor to prevent this.
12. This is an entire day job. I started at 10am and finished at 5pm. This included all the driving around to press the bearing and a 30min lunch break. So this is not the easiest job in the world.
Tools:
Ball joint separator, Hub puller/pusher, 36mm socket, 10mm, 14mm, and 17mm sockets w/ extension, big ass breaker bar (to attach to end of rachet for more leverage), can of PB blaster, hammer, and an open shop that can press a bearing for you (car quest, napa), 3/8 and 1/2 driver ratchet
Obtaining tools:
Go to Murrays or Autozone to rent ball joint separator, hub puller/pusher, and 36mm socket.
Instructions:
1. Remove wheel (aka take off lug nuts)
2. Spray PB blaster on steering knuckle ball joint, Upper ball joint (there is a cap over the nut so use 10mm socket to remove cap then spray), lower ball joint, and the four 14mm bolts in the middle by the axle nut, and axle nut itself.
3. Use 17mm socket w/ breaker bar to take lower bolt off caliper to remove pads and use 17mm socket w/ breaker bar to remove caliper bracket. Get a box/jackstand to place the caliper on after removal.
4. Take 10mm socket and remove the metal bracket holding the brake line to the arm. ( gives more slack in brake line and is necessary to take arm off)
5. Use 36mm w/ breaker bar to remove hub nut (aka spindle nut or axle nut) and 14mm w/ breaker bar to remove the 4 bolts in the middle
6. Remove cotter pins in upper, lower, and steering knuckle ball joints and use 17mm w/ breaker bar to remove all 3 nuts
7. Using the ball joint separator w/ hammer, separate steering knuckle ball joint, Upper ball joint, and lower ball joint ( in that order) Let rest in lower ball joint.
8. Using hub pusher/puller, fasten on to lug bolts and slowly push out axle.
9. Take the entire arm w/ new rotor and the 14mm bolts from the middle that you removed to a shop that can press out the bearing and put on new rotor ( should be like $70 for both)
10. The installation is the reverse
11. The other side is kinda tricky because when you are trying to remove the axle and 14mm bolts in the middle, the axle will rotate. Stick one of the ball joint separators on the back side of the rotor to prevent this.
12. This is an entire day job. I started at 10am and finished at 5pm. This included all the driving around to press the bearing and a 30min lunch break. So this is not the easiest job in the world.
08-19-2002, 04:56 AM
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The hub doesn't just pop out!!!!!!!!!!!! If your bearings are toast, they will. You need a press. I was sitting there for 2 hours trying to get it out. Trust me, I went to the dealer, napa, and carquest.
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