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Stock JDM B16a ...... N/A , Turbo , or Supercharged.

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Old 11-26-2004, 02:25 PM
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JDMrev2redline
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Default Stock JDM B16a ...... N/A , Turbo , or Supercharged.

I can really use some help with an engine decision. I have a complete JDM B16A engine and transmission setup. I have a Mugen valve cover, and a Greddy Evo II Cat back Exhaust. They aren't on yet because I haven't decided on N/A or Forced Induction? I don't want to buy something twice. i would like to do it right the first time out, as far as purchasing goes. If i go all motor i would like to be able to get 300 whp, but i would need tips or info from any one who has found what works. if i go turbo low 12's to high 11's still streetable if thats possible. either way i would like to here the pro's and con's of both and anyone's personal experience with either or. Any help with this subject will be much appreciated. i can be reached here or at bluedrib@aol.com thanks. :driving:

Last edited by JDMrev2redline; 11-26-2004 at 02:27 PM. Reason: needed better title
Old 11-26-2004, 02:37 PM
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Snoopy
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well how much are you looking to spend? and 300whp NA from a b16 is next to impossible.
Old 11-26-2004, 02:49 PM
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ED9man
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you can sell that mugen valvecover and use it to buy something worthwhile.
Old 11-26-2004, 07:05 PM
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JDMrev2redline
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price doesnt matter. it will have to be staged or bought in sections. like if i went turbo i would build up trans. and maybe some better axles, then maybe sleeve the block or some other internal work, then buy and dyno tune the turbo system. that is just an example of what i might do if i went that direction. do you have any realistic suggestions for all motor? will i run into any upkeep problems later that i might not run into if i went with forced induction? i would like to be able to talk to somebody that can help me, an not just tell me to you the same generic parts everyother person is. i am not trying to spend more money than anyone, but i would just like to know that i am getting the most power for any components i may buy. every ounce of 'hp' as you know counts
Old 11-27-2004, 03:35 PM
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1stGenCRXer
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Originally Posted by JDMrev2redline
If i go all motor i would like to be able to get 300 whp,
No.
if i go turbo low 12's to high 11's still streetable
If by "streetable" you mean it's still street legal, then sure, it's possible. If you mean you can still use all that power without control problems, then No.

There's no off-the-shelf answer for what you're trying to do, other than to quit buying things right now, and research and ask about some one else's build-up that you might clone, or hire a performance shop to do it all for you.

Unfortunately, for such lofty goals out of the gate, the answer is becoming more and more "if you have to ask, you aren't up the to task".
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Old 11-27-2004, 06:54 PM
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Kai
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Originally Posted by 1stGenCRXer
Unfortunately, for such lofty goals out of the gate, the answer is becoming more and more "if you have to ask, you aren't up the to task".
That's what I thought of when I read his post. He has no idea how much work that's going to take, nor how expensive it's going to be. I can see a new guy aiming for like 175 wheel horsepower or a high 14 ET, but 300hp and a 12 ET? I don't think so.
Old 11-27-2004, 08:55 PM
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augy
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Originally Posted by Kai
That's what I thought of when I read his post. He has no idea how much work that's going to take, nor how expensive it's going to be. I can see a new guy aiming for like 175 wheel horsepower or a high 14 ET, but 300hp and a 12 ET? I don't think so.
:werd:

Originally Posted by JDMrev2redline
price doesnt matter.
yes it does. If it didn't, you wouldn't even be asking on this board, you'd be handing your car and 20k to a performance shop. I know it's a kill joy, but you need more realistic goals to accomplish anything in this hobby. A DIY high-performance build-up with a real-world budget takes more time and energy than most people, even on this board, can spare. If you took a survey of this entire board, I think you'd be surprised at how few people are actually running in the 12-13s ET range. Most of us have to be happy with maybe aftermarket suspensions and a moderately-difficult (for us obd0 and obd1 folk) b16 swap. Take a good look at your budget, your daily grind (Sometimes I REALLY don't feel like wrenching after 8 hours of standing on my feet) and how much you love to drive your car.
Old 11-28-2004, 01:56 PM
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luky1380
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i put on 93 2dr coup civic b16a replaced onit
intake and exhoust cams
longer rods
pistons and rings
valve springs
intake manifold
change hall exhaust system on super light titenium from headers to muffler
high flow cat
high presure fuel pump
biger injectors
fuel presure regulator
short ram intake
high voltage ignition system
vtec controler
stage 2 clutch
and after all i spend around $4000 only in parts all work i did my self it took me 2 montheafter all it came out 242whp 228ft/lb torque 12.86 sec 1/4ml
it is more then anough for me on the street and on the drag way
i dont need any turbos
Old 11-28-2004, 02:23 PM
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Kai
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Originally Posted by luky1380
pushing rods
B16A's don't have pushrods, bud.

Those specs are super vague for someone claiming to put down 242 wheel, N/A, out of a 1595cc engine.

228lb-ft... I don't see that happening without nitrous.
Old 11-28-2004, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Kai
B16A's don't have pushrods, bud.

Those specs are super vague for someone claiming to put down 242 wheel, N/A, out of a 1595cc engine.

228lb-ft... I don't see that happening without nitrous.
exactly



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