Mount problem/timing belt
07-30-2010, 04:59 PM
#1
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Mount problem/timing belt
Hello all. I'm in the middle of changing the timing belt on my 98 LX, and the left lower motor mount is trashed. I went to take the bolts off, and they both snapped in their holes. I need to get this mount off to change the AC belt, which needs to be replaced. I've worked on some D15s before and I've never had to deal with a lower left engine mount before. Can I just cut the old mount off and leave it? Or do I have to cut a whole in the side of the wheel well and put in a new mount?
Thanks.
Thanks.
07-30-2010, 06:16 PM
#2
Boats n hoes
Thread Starter
After doing a little bit of research, it looks like this is called the left torque mount?
So is this necessary? I'm basically going to have to cut into the frame to install a new one.
So is this necessary? I'm basically going to have to cut into the frame to install a new one.
07-31-2010, 05:37 PM
#3
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Don't cut the frame, it's not necessary.
The only torque mount that the car needs is the rear mount. If you're using stock rubber mounts it's best to have the front mount(s) helping but for normal daily driving it will be fine.
I'd try drilling out what remains in the threads (spray liberally with PB Blaster before you try, both from the bottom and top by sticking the straw into the pre-existing drain holes in the frame) but if worse comes to worse you can drive the car without the lower left torque mount.
I'm a little confused though, is the bracket already off the car? If the bracket is still on the car, you can remove the A/C belt by only removing the center rubber insert (and leaving the bracket in place) or even without removing the center insert but it would be more difficult/a tighter fit.
The 4 thin rubber connections that hold the rubber insert in the left front bracket aren't important and will either already be broken/missing or they can be cut, just make sure when you reinstall the center insert that the orientation is correct after the nut is torqued down. Holding it in place with one hand while you tighten it down a bit helps.
If you have already taken the braket off the car by this point (and are unable to reinstall it) I would leave the center insert on the lower left A/C 'rod' (cutting the 4 thin rubber connections to the bracket if necessary) because it will still help during acceleration. The brackets for the lower front torque mounts are there to give added support during engine braking but as long as the rear mount is there and secure, those brackets are a nice extra but aren't needed if worse comes to worse. The engine will torque/rotate far more under acceleration than it ever could from engine braking so I doubt the other mounts would even notice that the front left bracket is no longer there.
The only torque mount that the car needs is the rear mount. If you're using stock rubber mounts it's best to have the front mount(s) helping but for normal daily driving it will be fine.
I'd try drilling out what remains in the threads (spray liberally with PB Blaster before you try, both from the bottom and top by sticking the straw into the pre-existing drain holes in the frame) but if worse comes to worse you can drive the car without the lower left torque mount.
I'm a little confused though, is the bracket already off the car? If the bracket is still on the car, you can remove the A/C belt by only removing the center rubber insert (and leaving the bracket in place) or even without removing the center insert but it would be more difficult/a tighter fit.
The 4 thin rubber connections that hold the rubber insert in the left front bracket aren't important and will either already be broken/missing or they can be cut, just make sure when you reinstall the center insert that the orientation is correct after the nut is torqued down. Holding it in place with one hand while you tighten it down a bit helps.
If you have already taken the braket off the car by this point (and are unable to reinstall it) I would leave the center insert on the lower left A/C 'rod' (cutting the 4 thin rubber connections to the bracket if necessary) because it will still help during acceleration. The brackets for the lower front torque mounts are there to give added support during engine braking but as long as the rear mount is there and secure, those brackets are a nice extra but aren't needed if worse comes to worse. The engine will torque/rotate far more under acceleration than it ever could from engine braking so I doubt the other mounts would even notice that the front left bracket is no longer there.
Last edited by A-series; 07-31-2010 at 05:56 PM.
08-01-2010, 02:48 PM
#4
Boats n hoes
Thread Starter
OK, so I had to cut the entire bracket/mount off because the bolts were spinning in their holes. The nuts inside the frame must have come loose. I cut it off, finished my timing belt, and then took it out for a drive. I can feel the engine moving when I accelerate hard..... I'm going to reattach the new mount by just drilling 3/4" holes and putting in new nuts.
08-01-2010, 03:43 PM
#5
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^ That'll work, but you really shouldn't be feeling any difference under acceleration as long as there is a rubber insert on that rod(torqued down with the washer and nut of course). Under accel the engine torques back and that rubber insert will push up on the frame. You don't need the bracket that would normally hold that rubber insert as it has zero effect under acceleration (not on the left/driver's side that is) but at this point if you want to make it perfect I say best of luck :thumbup:
Worse case scenario though just cut the rubber insert out of the new lower left mount (or reuse old) and torque it down on the rod.
Worse case scenario though just cut the rubber insert out of the new lower left mount (or reuse old) and torque it down on the rod.
Last edited by A-series; 08-01-2010 at 03:46 PM.
08-01-2010, 06:05 PM
#6
Boats n hoes
Thread Starter
^ That'll work, but you really shouldn't be feeling any difference under acceleration as long as there is a rubber insert on that rod(torqued down with the washer and nut of course). Under accel the engine torques back and that rubber insert will push up on the frame. You don't need the bracket that would normally hold that rubber insert as it has zero effect under acceleration (not on the left/driver's side that is) but at this point if you want to make it perfect I say best of luck :thumbup:
Worse case scenario though just cut the rubber insert out of the new lower left mount (or reuse old) and torque it down on the rod.
Worse case scenario though just cut the rubber insert out of the new lower left mount (or reuse old) and torque it down on the rod.
Thanks
08-03-2010, 09:34 AM
#7
Boats n hoes
Thread Starter
I used a 1/2" titanium bit and drilled through the frame, then used a cut off disk to widen the holes a little so I could get a wrench in to hold the bolt while I tightened it. I used M10-1.25 35mm bolts and M10-1.25 nuts with flat washers and locking washers.
Here's a pic of the newly installed mount before I cleaned/primed/undercoated the whole area:
The car drives a whole lot better now. No more engine jumping.
Here's a pic of the newly installed mount before I cleaned/primed/undercoated the whole area:
The car drives a whole lot better now. No more engine jumping.
Last edited by themonsteraria; 08-03-2010 at 09:35 AM.
08-03-2010, 10:10 AM
#8
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Glad you got it taken care of but in the future you can avoid the whole mess by just not removing that mount bracket. The middle rubber insert will normally already be separated from the outer bracket if it's older, but otherwise the 4 'straps' are easily cut and just removing that center insert allows you to pull the old A/C belt off the car and put a new belt on.
I removed my lower left mount (bracket and all) with no issue (just a little surface rust on the bolts) and it is necessary to remove that bracket to install poly bushings, but since many people have you issue you did, I don't think worth the risk in most cases to remove that bracket. (at least not without a liberal application of pb blaster via the drain holes). I personally would have rather left that bracket off than remove material from the frame, but then I don't have access to all the tools you do either
I removed my lower left mount (bracket and all) with no issue (just a little surface rust on the bolts) and it is necessary to remove that bracket to install poly bushings, but since many people have you issue you did, I don't think worth the risk in most cases to remove that bracket. (at least not without a liberal application of pb blaster via the drain holes). I personally would have rather left that bracket off than remove material from the frame, but then I don't have access to all the tools you do either
Last edited by A-series; 08-03-2010 at 10:12 AM.