Notices

Tips on mugen DIY grill mod, HELP!!

Thread Tools
 
Old 05-18-2003, 11:13 AM
  #1  
VRGNCD5
cause it's tight!
Thread Starter
 
VRGNCD5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 916
Posts: 8,044
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Tips on mugen DIY grill mod, HELP!!

Aight, I cut the middle bar off, cut the black bracket it mounts to, now comes the fun stuff. Working w/the bondo and fiberglass. I have never ever messed w/the stuff before so im pretty :nervous: I read cryogens diy but i need some visual cue's.
First question is when trying to close the "pac man mouth", do I apply the fiberglass from the back or from the top per the instructions? When I lay the fiberglass down, being that there is a gaping hole in the grill, that part of the fiberglass cloth won't get saturated w/the mixture or should I brush some of it on there? When playing w/the glass, how careful should I be as far as getting it where I don't want it? Would I be ass out if I accidently get it elsewhere on the grill where it's not needed or is it easily sanded away? I'm so paranoid that it's gonna look stupid once I get done, I just can't imagine myself making it look like it was made like that once im done. Bodywork skurrs me.
Old 05-18-2003, 11:19 AM
  #2  
Fryd_Up
rebmeM roineS
 
Fryd_Up's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 736
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

lay the fiberglass on the back of the hole, this way when it drys it will be a backing to the bondo and give the bondo something to hold onto and keep it from breaking away. get the whole cloth wet by dipping the entire thing in the mixture.when it drys it gets really hard and stiff and thats what you want. if you get any resin anywhere it'll sand right off, you might have to smooth out and trim the fiberglass with a dremel and some sand paper once its dry too. also while its drying make sure the part at the hole doesnt bend into it, try to keep it flat there. its hard to describe but i hope it makes sense
Old 05-18-2003, 11:40 AM
  #3  
VRGNCD5
cause it's tight!
Thread Starter
 
VRGNCD5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 916
Posts: 8,044
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally posted by Fryd_Up
lay the fiberglass on the back of the hole, this way when it drys it will be a backing to the bondo and give the bondo something to hold onto and keep it from breaking away.

I figured so, just wanted to make sure cause the directions say to lay it in top of the hole, using a rust hole as the example on the container.

get the whole cloth wet by dipping the entire thing in the mixture.when it drys it gets really hard and stiff and thats what you want.

dip it? Maybe I was looking at the wrong type of kit but it says to brush on the mixture and it looks pretty thick, almost like a paste. Am I tripping or will the mixture be kinda watery?

if you get any resin anywhere it'll sand right off.

whew! Im bound to get it where it doesn't belongh:

you might have to smooth out and trim the fiberglass with a dremel and some sand paper once its dry too.

Speaking of a dremel, I am having the time of my life finding the reinforced cut off wheels for it:angry: I ended up using some wire cutters and a soldering iron to cut the grill last nighth: But it worked good, just took a little longer that it probably should have.

also while its drying make sure the part at the hole doesnt bend into it, try to keep it flat there.

I was wondering about that too. I think what im gonna do is lay the glass down, then install the grill back to the black bracket and set it down right side up, that way if it bulges out a bit, the bracket will already be on so I won't have any gaps between the grill and the bracket thanks to a hardened, bulging glass job.
Old 05-18-2003, 12:38 PM
  #4  
95AccordEXR
Senior Member
 
95AccordEXR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Nfld, Canada
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

use bondo instead of fibreglass.

get a piece of window screen and tape it to the back of the hole. Put lots of bondo over and around the hole. Too much is better than not enough.
Old 05-18-2003, 01:05 PM
  #5  
Samson
chris is the devil
 
Samson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: so cal 951 + 760
Posts: 8,512
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i backed all the areas i covered in bondo with lots of masking tape, then once the bondo dried, i peeled all the masking tape off.... leaving a nice smooth backing, and used an electric sander to sand it all smooth.... Man was it difficult... time consuming.
Old 05-18-2003, 01:50 PM
  #6  
VRGNCD5
cause it's tight!
Thread Starter
 
VRGNCD5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 916
Posts: 8,044
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

They had this mesh looking stuff at the store, had adhesive on the backside, I was thinking about getting some of that but then I thought about it and realized that it's probably not the best stuff to use when working w/small, concave area. Now if I was fixing a rust hole or something, no problem. I think im still gonna use fiberglass and bondo. Using bondo only just doesn't seem too good of an idea, I'd feel alot better knowing that I have some glass on there for the added strenght and support. The part that scares me out of it all is the sanding part, I don't have an electric sander and im just worried that it's not gonna be as clean and smooth as I'd like.
Old 05-18-2003, 10:09 PM
  #7  
VRGNCD5
cause it's tight!
Thread Starter
 
VRGNCD5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 916
Posts: 8,044
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

well, I got my products, this is what I got:

3M Emery Cloth(sandpaper)
2ea coarse grit
2ea medium grit
2ea fine grit


Cargroom Fiberglass resin jelly repair kit


Sanding block


bondo

Total cost-$26




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:33 PM.