lordMylanta

I've seen this topic covered 1000 times and I’ve read it 1000 times and gotten 1000 different answers... So I’m hoping to clarify.
My wife has a 1996 Honda Accord LX. I'm planning on changing the pads and rotors myself (front). From what I’ve read the rotor/hub assembly is NOT pressed together, correct? What years do have the pressed rotors?

So with a good set of mechanic tools, a two jaw puller, and a little skill I should be able to accomplish this at home, right?

Thanks for all the help - and sorry for repeating this topic!

usc

well, i have a '93 but it is to the best of my knowledge that the 90-97 share identical suspension parts.

the rotor bolts to the back-end of the hub. which is then pressed on. but the rotor itself is not physically pressed on (not sandwiched in between).

there are a couple of ways to do this. you can take it to a mechanic and have them use a press and disassemble it for you. or the other way is to hammer out the entire hub from the back end and you can then remove/unbolt the rotors that way.

lordMylanta

I guess I’m missing something here. I got the Haynes book for the car and it doesn’t say anything about needing a press to remove the rotors. According to the book:
Remove the axel nut.
Remove the caliper.
Separate the lower ball joint with a 2 jaw puller.
Pull the spindle out the back of the hub assembly.
Swing out the steering knuckle.
Remove the four bolts.
Pull the hub assemble/rotor off.
Remove the four bolts that hold the rotor to the hub assembly.

What am I missing?

Thanks again for the help!

Baget

hmm i have a 94 accord lx and they were pressed on there i had no choice but to bring it to a mechanic. unless you can create over 1000 pounds of pressure

maybe just have them spin the rotors or whatever?

lordMylanta

I know that the wheel bearing is pressed into the hub assembly but the rotor should just be bolted to the hub, right? The hub assembly and rotor should pull away from the steering knuckle once unbolted, right?

I think i'm still missing something here??

Tenzo

I have a 94 accord and when I did my crossdrilled rotors I did the back ones 1st and I didn't have a problem with them at all (other then a couple rusted bolts) Then when I tried to do the front ones no luck you can't get them off for shit. So I took it to a shop and they put the fronts ones on for me.

So I don't think you can get the front ones off with tools that you would have at your house.

Let us know though.

BustedLX

On your Accord (1990-1997) the bearing is pressed to the hub. The rotor is secured to the hub by way of 4 14mm head size bolts.

The rotor however can not be removed without removal of the bearing/hub assembly.

To remove the rotors you need to remove the caliper, caliper bracket, 36mm cv axles center nut, seperate the lower ball joint, the turn the assembly towards the rear of the car.

Using a 12 sided 10mm socket remove the four bolts secureing the bearing to the spindle.

Sometimes the bearing becomes rusted to the spindle. What I do is back the 12 sided 10mm out slightly and evenly and then using a center punch hit them in sequence till the bearing works it's way out of the spindle.

Then off the car you can remove the rotor from the bearing/hub assembly by removing the 4 14mm's.

If you want to replace your bearings you must take them to a machine shop becuase you need a hydrolic press to seperate and press the bearings to the hubs.

Hope this helped email me should you have any other questions.

lordMylanta

Thanks Bustedlx. That is what I was thinking. From what I’ve read in my Haynes manual I should have no problem (in theory) getting the disc and hub assembly off the car and separated. It's the bearing that is pressed into the hub assembly, but this shouldn't interfere with changing the rotors.
Thanks to all. I'll let you know how it goes!

jsinger

I got same car and everything ... had to do the same thing...

I also had a Haynes manual.. and I was all confused too, heh... not enough pics... what you said does make sense busted... wish I would have talked to you sooner and saved myself 200 bucks in labor.. heh. I tried getting that 36mm bolt off... just couldn't do it.. our air compressor just wasn't powerful enough...

REbornHONDAneer

so...if i understand u correctly. You NEED to take off that 36mm hub nut...AND those 4 14mm bolts? I saw in the haynes manual the entire rotor with that round plate setting on a table. So obviously he got that off without removing that plate.

I am trying to get my rotors turned and not spend over $100. If u can help me, i'd be soooo appreciative! thanks!

Dave