Wes_R

So this is my first thread and post in the Detailing section so I would like to introduce myself first. My name is Wes Robles and I have been detailing for about 5 years now. I started out as a car jockey/wash guy at a high end indie dealership here in Toronto for the summer. I then slowly got into detailing and worked with equipment and products like Auto Magic, Presta, Worlds Best Wax, a Makita Rotary, and the good old sun to check my work. For the past two summers I have been detailing friends, family, neighbors, co-workers, and etc. cars for side money but this year decided to take the plunge and start my own mobile detailing business. Anyway here is my first official costumer and his RSX type S which was in for a full paint correction and the interior aswell, enjoy!!!

ps. I've tried to make my write up somewhat educational so the non pro guys can hopefully get some tips, so hence the many pics which I apologize for. I look forward to sharing more write ups with you guys, discussing detailing, giving and receiving advice, and much more.


So here is the car upon arrival. Had an overcast day here in Toronto and hail in June... go figure.










First up is soak the wheels and wheel well.

The wheel cleaner was Menzerna Gel 7.5 Wheel and Tire Cleaner. I don't usually use this stuff, as it is a little more expensive but bought a little to try out and see if it is any better then the usual p21s Wheel Gel. Verdict: good but does the same work as p21s.




Soaked the wheel well with Meguairs Super Degreaser.




While those were soaking I moved on to the engine.


Soaked that with Meguiars Super Degreaser and let it sit while I went back to the tires and wheels.




I got at the inner rims with my EZ-Brush, did the wheel faces with a micro fibre mitt, and used both to agitate inside the wheel well. After all that rinsed everything.








I agitated some dirty spots on the engine, rinsed, then dryed off with a blower. Also dryed the rims to with the blower.


Turned on the engine and let it run for a bit.
Here is a final pic that was taken later on with the engine dressed with 303 Aerospace Protectant.




Now on to the washing.

I washed the car using the two bucket method(one bucket soapy water and the other just plain water for cleaning your mitt).


Today I decided to use the Natural Sea Sponge on the right.


Car soap was Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss.


And started washing, rinsing my sponge after every panel.

Wes_R

Dryed the car with my waffle weave towel.




The sun popped out for a little bit with enough for me to catch a glimpse of what I was in for.




Clayed the car with good old canadian brand Riccardo Clay.


Meguairs Last Touch was my lubricant.

Clayed the paint


and the windows.


Would have clayed the rims too, but they were new and did not need it.



So after one more rinse and drying I took measurements of the paint.
I have it set to microns which I believe is .0001 of a millimeter.

The average was 90-120 microns


but..

there were some highs


and lows.




So with an idea of what I was working with I began to tape up. The reason you mask up certain parts of the car is because around the edges paint is very thin and it is easy to burn through. Also emblems, rubber parts, etc don't get damaged either. I used 3M blue tape, there's two types the 2090 which can stay on for 16 days and leave no residue at all and the even more sensitive 2080 which can stay on for 60 days. The one used here is the 2090.




Inside clean and under the halogens I finally got a full view of what I was in for.






Out came the boys.


Generally you should start with the least abrasive and work your way up but since this isn't my first time and I know that anything lighter then a meduim polish is not going to do anything to those kind of swirls I started out with the Makita, 5.5" orange Lake Country pad, and Meguairs #83 at around 1500-1800rpm.


Tested it out on the hood and here is 50/50 pic of the results. Please forgive the stone chips and dust.


And a bigger view.


Me in action.


Also polished the headlights.

Passenger not polished.


Drivers polished.




The car was left with me overnight and so with all the swirl removal out of the way I put some tiger balm on my back and called it a night.

Day 2



Got up the next morning and washed the car with Hi Temp Prep Wash. Mixed it about 4:1 with water in a spray bottle, sprayed the car let it sit for a bit then washed like I would naturally do. Rinsed and dryed. The reason I wash with this stuff is because I have learnt that this stuff eats up the polish residue and is great for getting the stuff in the cracks and stone chips too. Touched up the left over stuff and the car was ready for the refining polish. (sorry no pics of this whole step)



On this soft Honda paint I finished with the Porter Cable, 5.5"white Lake County pad, and Menzerna Final Polish 2 at speed 5. Now the reason you finish with a finishing polish and finishing pad is because this burnishes the paint and refines it to provide that deep gloss.

Here I am at work cold on a June morning.


After finishing the whole car I check over my work for anything I might have missed with a 3M Sun Gun which omits the same spectrum light as the sun. I find this tool pretty handy because some days the sun is just not out like this morning and if it is depending on the time of day it does not shine at the angle you want it to.


Here is the only decent before and after I was able to get.

before


after



I wiped and dusted the car down and applied Danase Wet Glaze by Porter Cable and a grey 5.5" Lake Country pad at speed 2. Sorry no pics I just wanted to get the car done as the customer was coming in the next couple hours.



Put the exterior on hold and on to the interior.

Started off by dusting the crevices and build up areas




The vents too.

Wes_R

Gave it an all purpose cleaner wipe down and brought out the q-tips to get the gunk in the crevices areas, like the underside of the power window buttons and in tight areas of the cup/tray holder.






Onto the leather cleaning and conditioning with the Gliptone Leather Cleaner and Conditoner.


Here is the leather cleaner foamed up and scrubbed with my Swissvax leather brush.






After


For perforated leather and in general, I apply the leather conditioner by hand so that build up does not get caught in the little holes.




After


Backseat also.

Wes_R

Finally with everything cleaned, dusted, and no gunk I dressed the interior with 303 Aerospace Protectant. I love this stuff because the shine it gives is just right not to shiny and not dull at all, plus it is a UV protectant.


The door panels dressed up.






Cleaned the windows with Stoners Invisible Glass then finally vacuumed.

Me getting in those tight spot inbetween the center console and the front seats. I hate seeing stuff in there.






Some before and afters of the interior.

Before back seat


After back seat


Before drivers side


After drivers side


Before passengers side


After passengers side




So back on the outside of things gave the car a light dusting and applied..

p21s 100% wax


While that was curing, I applied Poor Boys Wheel Sealant to the rims which helps keep brake dust etc. from caking on.


Also dressed the wheel well with some left over Meguairs Hyper Dressing cut 4:1 with water for a not too shiny shine and applied Black Fire Long Lasting Tyre Gel to the tires.




Wiped off the wax and finally took a couple after pics.







Check out the clouds.




Check out the clouds pt.2




Look at the flake. I love Nighthawk Black.














And the money shot.




Overall I got the paint correction to about 95% except for the few random deep scratches and stone chips.

Thank you for reading.
All comments good, bad, and ugly are welcome.

Cyclonus

Thanks for posting this. I read every word. Very very informative. Even your forum posts are detailed.

That is incredible work you've got going there. My Nighthawk Black coupe also has swirls as bad as the RSX before shots. This gives me hope!

I'm still an amateur at detailing which is why I haven't yet tackled my car's swirls. I've been doing my research before I do that. Which is why I gotta ask some noob questions:

1) What is the purpose of claying the windows?
2) What's the instrument called that measures the paint layer thickness?
3) Did you polish the headlights with Meg's #83 too?
4) After the 2nd wash right after finishing the initial polishing/swirl removal, I assume it's not really necessary to clay again at this point?
5) Would applying a glaze after the finishing polish make a difference? Same with a sealant?
6) What difference is there between the Makita and the Porter Cable and the reason for using both? I hear nothing but praise for the PC7424 (I assume that's what you have...?), so my money plans to only buy one buffer.