95 Ex...need some help
11-18-2002, 09:16 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: WA
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
95 Ex...need some help
Sorry for my ignorance on civics but I need some help!!
I found a 95 Ex D16z sohc vtec engine w/tranny that I wanna slowly work on to drop into a hatch. The plans are to turbo it with maybe the GReddy kit or Apex not really sure..... my questions:
1. Is the engine from the 95 Ex a D16Z6 engine??
2. The engine that is being sold has 160,000 miles on it comes with motor mounts, axles, tranny, maybe ecu, dc sports 4-2-1 header, aftermarket clutch, and some other ish.....what is a good price for this engine? Asking price is $500
3. I don't have much money and this is going to be just a slow little project of mine so what are some opinions and options on the turbo sohc?
4. Do you think I should rebuild it first or just boost it with minimum psi? (I am thinking rebuild since high miles)
5. What needs to be done and what are some decent priced parts to build the engine up to handle boost on a student budget?
Sorry for being so long....
THANKS IN ADVANCE and I will try to stay over at the Accord section from now on :thumbup:
I found a 95 Ex D16z sohc vtec engine w/tranny that I wanna slowly work on to drop into a hatch. The plans are to turbo it with maybe the GReddy kit or Apex not really sure..... my questions:
1. Is the engine from the 95 Ex a D16Z6 engine??
2. The engine that is being sold has 160,000 miles on it comes with motor mounts, axles, tranny, maybe ecu, dc sports 4-2-1 header, aftermarket clutch, and some other ish.....what is a good price for this engine? Asking price is $500
3. I don't have much money and this is going to be just a slow little project of mine so what are some opinions and options on the turbo sohc?
4. Do you think I should rebuild it first or just boost it with minimum psi? (I am thinking rebuild since high miles)
5. What needs to be done and what are some decent priced parts to build the engine up to handle boost on a student budget?
Sorry for being so long....
THANKS IN ADVANCE and I will try to stay over at the Accord section from now on :thumbup:
11-18-2002, 10:16 PM
#2
Need zzzzz's
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 3,386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1. Yes
2. I've seen similar setups with fewer miles go for around that price but I don't know what prices are like around your area. To me, the price sounds fair.
3. My brother was impressed by his friend's turbo D16...and he's strangely anti-Honda these days.
3-5. Inspyral and others can be a big help.
2. I've seen similar setups with fewer miles go for around that price but I don't know what prices are like around your area. To me, the price sounds fair.
3. My brother was impressed by his friend's turbo D16...and he's strangely anti-Honda these days.
3-5. Inspyral and others can be a big help.
11-18-2002, 11:22 PM
#3
X-Motoring
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: bay area
Posts: 2,530
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 95 Ex...need some help
1. yes
2. 5 hun is kinda steep for that motor of that high of milegae but then again u get alot of shiet with it, its kewl i guess.
3. turbo sohc kiss ass, ask jkan2001 and insypral.
4. rebuild that badboy.
5. new pistons, stronger rods, beefier valve train, and stronger head bolts and thicker head gasket.
late
2. 5 hun is kinda steep for that motor of that high of milegae but then again u get alot of shiet with it, its kewl i guess.
3. turbo sohc kiss ass, ask jkan2001 and insypral.
4. rebuild that badboy.
5. new pistons, stronger rods, beefier valve train, and stronger head bolts and thicker head gasket.
late
Originally posted by accord4thgen
Sorry for my ignorance on civics but I need some help!!
I found a 95 Ex D16z sohc vtec engine w/tranny that I wanna slowly work on to drop into a hatch. The plans are to turbo it with maybe the GReddy kit or Apex not really sure..... my questions:
1. Is the engine from the 95 Ex a D16Z6 engine??
2. The engine that is being sold has 160,000 miles on it comes with motor mounts, axles, tranny, maybe ecu, dc sports 4-2-1 header, aftermarket clutch, and some other ish.....what is a good price for this engine? Asking price is $500
3. I don't have much money and this is going to be just a slow little project of mine so what are some opinions and options on the turbo sohc?
4. Do you think I should rebuild it first or just boost it with minimum psi? (I am thinking rebuild since high miles)
5. What needs to be done and what are some decent priced parts to build the engine up to handle boost on a student budget?
Sorry for being so long....
THANKS IN ADVANCE and I will try to stay over at the Accord section from now on :thumbup:
Sorry for my ignorance on civics but I need some help!!
I found a 95 Ex D16z sohc vtec engine w/tranny that I wanna slowly work on to drop into a hatch. The plans are to turbo it with maybe the GReddy kit or Apex not really sure..... my questions:
1. Is the engine from the 95 Ex a D16Z6 engine??
2. The engine that is being sold has 160,000 miles on it comes with motor mounts, axles, tranny, maybe ecu, dc sports 4-2-1 header, aftermarket clutch, and some other ish.....what is a good price for this engine? Asking price is $500
3. I don't have much money and this is going to be just a slow little project of mine so what are some opinions and options on the turbo sohc?
4. Do you think I should rebuild it first or just boost it with minimum psi? (I am thinking rebuild since high miles)
5. What needs to be done and what are some decent priced parts to build the engine up to handle boost on a student budget?
Sorry for being so long....
THANKS IN ADVANCE and I will try to stay over at the Accord section from now on :thumbup:
11-19-2002, 08:15 AM
#4
のんびり～(´ε｀)
3) Turbo is fun.
4) If it runs fine, now, then you might want to save up so you can rebuild it with aftermarket parts all at once.
5) If you're going to running less than about 10lbs of boost, that can be done on completely stock internals, provided your tuning is up to snuff. I would say 6-8lbs of boost daily driven would not be a problem on decent tuning, and around 10lbs of boost with better tuning. If you want some extra security, Eagle rods($330) and Wiseco pistons($399) are a good start. If you plan on running more than 10-12lbs of boost, then you need to have the block resleeved. If you're going to get new sleeves, then you might as well increase the bore size for some more displacement, and get pistons to match. With any boosted setup, fuel delivery and engine management are imperitive. For low boost, you can get away with using a 12:1 FMU, stock injectors, inline pump, and some form of a MAP limiter(check valves or a voltage clamp). You'll run pretty rich with an FMU setup, and you would need a piggyback fuel controller to help lean it out a little on top if you want to make better power. I would not trust an FMU setup with anything other than low boost for a variety of reasons. FMU setups lead to extremely high fuel pressure under boost, which can lead to injector failure, among other things. They also generally run extremely rich, which costs you some power. A better fuel solution is to run some larger injectors and an AFC. DSM 450cc injectors can be had for ~$50, and when you use an AFC to trim fuel in order to idle and run them, that gives you enough room to boost up to 10-12lbs without using a MAP limiter not throwing a MAP sensor code. The best engine management solution is a standalone ECM like Hondata, AEM EMS, A'PEXi Power FC, etc. These units allow you to have boost-dependent timing and fuel curves, along with many other features like 2-3 step rev limiting, full-throttle shift, etc. They are fully tunable, and will allow you to sxtract the most power at a given level of boost. They're also the safest way to tune, since your fuel AND timing curves are set up to compensate for boost.
4) If it runs fine, now, then you might want to save up so you can rebuild it with aftermarket parts all at once.
5) If you're going to running less than about 10lbs of boost, that can be done on completely stock internals, provided your tuning is up to snuff. I would say 6-8lbs of boost daily driven would not be a problem on decent tuning, and around 10lbs of boost with better tuning. If you want some extra security, Eagle rods($330) and Wiseco pistons($399) are a good start. If you plan on running more than 10-12lbs of boost, then you need to have the block resleeved. If you're going to get new sleeves, then you might as well increase the bore size for some more displacement, and get pistons to match. With any boosted setup, fuel delivery and engine management are imperitive. For low boost, you can get away with using a 12:1 FMU, stock injectors, inline pump, and some form of a MAP limiter(check valves or a voltage clamp). You'll run pretty rich with an FMU setup, and you would need a piggyback fuel controller to help lean it out a little on top if you want to make better power. I would not trust an FMU setup with anything other than low boost for a variety of reasons. FMU setups lead to extremely high fuel pressure under boost, which can lead to injector failure, among other things. They also generally run extremely rich, which costs you some power. A better fuel solution is to run some larger injectors and an AFC. DSM 450cc injectors can be had for ~$50, and when you use an AFC to trim fuel in order to idle and run them, that gives you enough room to boost up to 10-12lbs without using a MAP limiter not throwing a MAP sensor code. The best engine management solution is a standalone ECM like Hondata, AEM EMS, A'PEXi Power FC, etc. These units allow you to have boost-dependent timing and fuel curves, along with many other features like 2-3 step rev limiting, full-throttle shift, etc. They are fully tunable, and will allow you to sxtract the most power at a given level of boost. They're also the safest way to tune, since your fuel AND timing curves are set up to compensate for boost.
11-19-2002, 06:41 PM
#6
I talk Before I think
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: eugene. OR
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by inspyral
3) Turbo is fun.
4) If it runs fine, now, then you might want to save up so you can rebuild it with aftermarket parts all at once.
5) If you're going to running less than about 10lbs of boost, that can be done on completely stock internals, provided your tuning is up to snuff. I would say 6-8lbs of boost daily driven would not be a problem on decent tuning, and around 10lbs of boost with better tuning. If you want some extra security, Eagle rods($330) and Wiseco pistons($399) are a good start. If you plan on running more than 10-12lbs of boost, then you need to have the block resleeved. If you're going to get new sleeves, then you might as well increase the bore size for some more displacement, and get pistons to match. With any boosted setup, fuel delivery and engine management are imperitive. For low boost, you can get away with using a 12:1 FMU, stock injectors, inline pump, and some form of a MAP limiter(check valves or a voltage clamp). You'll run pretty rich with an FMU setup, and you would need a piggyback fuel controller to help lean it out a little on top if you want to make better power. I would not trust an FMU setup with anything other than low boost for a variety of reasons. FMU setups lead to extremely high fuel pressure under boost, which can lead to injector failure, among other things. They also generally run extremely rich, which costs you some power. A better fuel solution is to run some larger injectors and an AFC. DSM 450cc injectors can be had for ~$50, and when you use an AFC to trim fuel in order to idle and run them, that gives you enough room to boost up to 10-12lbs without using a MAP limiter not throwing a MAP sensor code. The best engine management solution is a standalone ECM like Hondata, AEM EMS, A'PEXi Power FC, etc. These units allow you to have boost-dependent timing and fuel curves, along with many other features like 2-3 step rev limiting, full-throttle shift, etc. They are fully tunable, and will allow you to sxtract the most power at a given level of boost. They're also the safest way to tune, since your fuel AND timing curves are set up to compensate for boost.
3) Turbo is fun.
4) If it runs fine, now, then you might want to save up so you can rebuild it with aftermarket parts all at once.
5) If you're going to running less than about 10lbs of boost, that can be done on completely stock internals, provided your tuning is up to snuff. I would say 6-8lbs of boost daily driven would not be a problem on decent tuning, and around 10lbs of boost with better tuning. If you want some extra security, Eagle rods($330) and Wiseco pistons($399) are a good start. If you plan on running more than 10-12lbs of boost, then you need to have the block resleeved. If you're going to get new sleeves, then you might as well increase the bore size for some more displacement, and get pistons to match. With any boosted setup, fuel delivery and engine management are imperitive. For low boost, you can get away with using a 12:1 FMU, stock injectors, inline pump, and some form of a MAP limiter(check valves or a voltage clamp). You'll run pretty rich with an FMU setup, and you would need a piggyback fuel controller to help lean it out a little on top if you want to make better power. I would not trust an FMU setup with anything other than low boost for a variety of reasons. FMU setups lead to extremely high fuel pressure under boost, which can lead to injector failure, among other things. They also generally run extremely rich, which costs you some power. A better fuel solution is to run some larger injectors and an AFC. DSM 450cc injectors can be had for ~$50, and when you use an AFC to trim fuel in order to idle and run them, that gives you enough room to boost up to 10-12lbs without using a MAP limiter not throwing a MAP sensor code. The best engine management solution is a standalone ECM like Hondata, AEM EMS, A'PEXi Power FC, etc. These units allow you to have boost-dependent timing and fuel curves, along with many other features like 2-3 step rev limiting, full-throttle shift, etc. They are fully tunable, and will allow you to sxtract the most power at a given level of boost. They're also the safest way to tune, since your fuel AND timing curves are set up to compensate for boost.
