ronshonda

Anyone know how the rear calipers should be secured stationary in order to screw the cylinder back down for brake pad installation. could be something is wrong with this cylinder cause it doesnt seem to want to turn?

jschmid

Instead of removing both bolts and removing the entire caliper from the bracket, just remove the lower pin, allowing the caliper to swing upwards, still attached at the top. Then you can rotate the piston back in with the caliper secured to the car.

semyonlibman

Question 1: is it a disk brake?

I've never heard of rotatiing pistons on Hondas. On Subarus in order to seat it back you have to rotate it. If that's the case be very careful and do not push on it hard: you may break it.

Sam

waaBAAH

just grab a pliers and rotate the piston to push it back in. you want the rear pads to be close as possible to the rotors. touching is good. the closer it is the better brake pedal feel you will get. after all is said and done the rear "tire" (while you have the car in the air) should spin around less then one time.

jschmid

Never seen a drum brake with a caliper. Yes, on the 6th gen Accord anyway, you have to rotate the piston back into the caliper on the rear. In the front, you can just C-clamp it back into the caliper.

I'd rather use a tool or a very large screwdriver to prevent marring the piston with pliers. And it doesn't matter how close you put the piston to the new pads. When you start the car and pump the brakes, the piston will go to it's proper position.

And I prefer to do one side at a time and pump the brakes to avoid overflow on the brake fluid reservior as the fluid will back up as the piston is pushed into the caliper.

semyonlibman

Check it out

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/Brakes.html#ScrewIt

waaBAAH

you say tomatoe i say tomato. there are plenty of diffrent ways to get the piston back into the caliper. with a screwdriver you have to keep moving the screwdriver in diffrent locations resulting in more time and "marring" (lol) of the piston. with a pliers you can just twist and never move the pliers from its location. aka less "marring" i believe the link above this, ends this question.

while we are on the topic....yes you could leave a gap between the new pads and rotor and just pump the brakes untill you get a pedal.....but the pad isnt close to the rotor the brake pedal could and probaly will go all the way to the floor which isnt good for the master cylinder valves. so as a guidline....make sure you are as close as possible to the rotors with your new pads. quit trying to flame people!

jschmid

I'm not sure why you think I'm trying to "flame" you. Just giving my opinions and experiences.

The reason I believe the screwdriver or piston tool is less damaging is because that's where the manufacturer intents for it to be rotated in, on the surface of the piston that does not slide into the caliper, rather the area recessed in the piston. But if you can rotate the piston in without producing damage, I see no problem with your technique.