00CivicSleeper

Hey,

when is a good time to change brake pads? mine are starting to squeek, and it seems like i have to push a little farther to get it to stop. also, what kind would you recommend? im not looking for a super expensive brand, but a good reliable pad. and will i be able to install them myself?

b18civic1993

ProLine from pepboys. Most ceramic pads. Anything on the lower end will hold up fairly well. It wont give you the stop on the dime feeling but it will definatly take away the squeel and stiffen up your peddle. and when they start to squeek is always a good time to change them. you can bend the squeeler back(little metal piece on the side of the pad) or you can just change them its a personal preference.

CivicSiRacer

AEM pads are good too. I used them for 2-3 seasons of autocrossing with great results. Also make sure you flush your brake lines about once a year.

SRT_Andy

The best time to change them is when you have between 1/8" and 1/4" left on the pad. If you let it get to the metail, it will be harder or impossible to turn the rotors.

I had Axxis PBR semi-mettalic pads and they were OUTSTANDING! They may have cost me about $40, but it was well worth the money - I also got some Brembo OEM style rotors for $29 each for the fronts. One day on the way home I had to stop quickly for a redlight and couldn't believe how smooth and fast it decelerated - I thought I was sliding!

EDIT: Most people think that squeaking generally means you need to replace the pads, but the #1 cause of squeaking is brake and other dust. If your pads are still in good health, try some anti-squeak from AutoZone - it's about $.99 for a package which will cover the front pads.

OblivionLord

What happens if you dont flush your brake lines once a year?

CivicSiRacer

You can get containments in the fluid: rust, water, air - all which hamper braking performance. Especially air. It would be like a rubber ball between your foot and the pedal.

00CivicSleeper

is it pretty self explainatory on how to install once i get the car jacked up and wheel off? also, i will only need front brake pads correct? whats on the rear. also, do i have disk or drum? i know those are newbie questions but ive never looked into it

edit: oh, and would i benefit from buying some aftermarket oe drilled/slotted rotors? such as brembo/aem

Moso

changing front pads is a farily simple process, usually you can get away with removing one of the two bolts holding the caliper to the steering nuckle, and rotating the caliper upwards using the seccond bolt as a piviot point. once you have sufficently exposed the pads you should be able to remove them fairly simply with a flathead screwdriver, being careful not to damage the retaining clips as some pad suppliers do not supply new ones. once the pads have been removed you will need to press the caliper piston back into the caliper. be shure before you do this that you have removed the cap from the break fluid resivor and rested the cap on top to keep the fluid from squirting out of the resivor, then using a large C-clamp gently press the piston back into the caliper minding not to tear the rubber seal between the caliper and the piston once this is finished you can insert the new pads into the caliper. application of anti squeel compound to the backing of the pads is reccomended to keep the pads in place. reverse the order you used to remove the caliper and make shure the bolts are tight holding the caliper on. PUMP THE PEDAL A FEW TIMES BEFORE MOVING THE CAR!!! this is very important as it will take a few pumps to set the piston against the pads and the pads against the rotor. for standard street use any decent semi-metallic pads should be fine and the stock rotors should provide good stopping power. cross drilled rotors do help reduce break fade but should only be needed for racing applications. also flushing the break system keeps contaminates down in the system and keeps your break fluid from boiling under EXTREME conditions witch would result in having air in your breaking system.

the rear system should be drums and is a little more complicated as there are a few springs and cables wich need to be put on in the proper order and location, any time you service your rear breaks i suggest you should buy a hardware kit as well as break shoes. the expence is minimal and it is never good to use a spring more than once. most hanes/chiltons manuals should have a walkthrough on this system and anyone with a decent memory(or camera) should have little trouble preforming this mantinence

00CivicSleeper

alright, im thinking bout just taking it someplace to install the pads. ill need them to replace the front and rear correct? also, would i be able to purchase my own pads, take them to them and have them install it? if i do that, what all would i need to buy? obviously front pads, but what do i need for the rear?

Moso

although i would never discourage someone from taking thair car to a mechanic i am going to have to say you should at least have a look at your breaking system before decideing to do so, the pad change is a fairly simple process and you can save alot of money. as far as taking your car and parts to a mechanic it is possible just make shure you call in advance and make shure thay will install your own parts... as far as a parts list your going to need pads for the front and if your rear breaks are going bad (usually indicated by having to push the pedal in an excessive amount) your gonna need a set of shoes and more than likely a hardware kit. none of these parts should be expensive and you should be able to obtain them at your local parts store.