jcxcrxsi

in a 1920lb crx...i want a low 12- 11 sec car, depending on launching and rubber. (fiberglass doors, fenders, etc. not Including rollcage weight)

now i am at the point where i need to choose NA,Turbo, or (apparently least likely now) supercharged. Im looking for the most "bolt-on" i can get. i want my car running the: #1most reliable, #2fastest (low12-11sec 1/4), and #3least hassle for no more than 4000. which package do i buy, brand new:
:nervous::bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown::nervous:
1. NA : 12.0 or more:1 comp ratio pistons and blockguard, with stage 3 vtec cams, 65mm IM + throttle body, F.P.R, 255 walbro fuel pump, 310cc inj. and put the extra money into the head: P+P job, valves and retainers, etc.
should make over 220 hp to the wheels.
0r
2. TURBO : 8.8 or lower?:1 comp. ratio pistons, resleeve, turbo vtec cams, and a very complete kit of some kind pushing 12 psi or more safely.(if turbo'd, i'd want a mid 11 sec 1/4 w/slicks and a good launch.)
Or
3. a supercharger that fits and will put me over 300whp w/o putting me over 4000 for the apparent "custom" install of cutting and bending the engine bay/hood/wheel well. etc. if i can even make it fit?

what should i do, what kit should i buy? most turbo bang (psi@least 12lbs), reliablility (at least 30,000 miles w/o rebuild, if possible), and speed of install? i need the most complete and reliable, hassle free kit to do this. i dont want to search for parts for the next 3 months trying to find whats missing. please help with websites, shops, friends...i need to finish this car and am looking to you honda/acura tech junkies for some help.
thank you
:dunno: olong: :ugh: :eek3:

Provocateur

You aren't going to find much reliability in a 12 second car. Turbo looks like the only way to go since you will pay out the ass for N/A and a supercharger just won't fit or give you the kind of power you want.

A turbo install takes about 10 hours for an experienced mechanic. Mine took me 16 hours spread across three days. I did everything myself though and it worked fine. If you are planning on internals, you will need to rip the entire engine apart and that will take longer than the turbo install.

For $4000, you won't get to 11 seconds. The turbo itself will run about $3000 and then the internals and then the tuning. $4000 is really lowballing this project. I have invested over $4000 and I am boosting on stock internals @ 8 psi without tuning. (Tuning is my next priority though)

If you are inclined enough, you can piece your turbo kit together yourself with a turbo best suited for your needs and save a ton of money. If you don't have smog or do and don't plan on driving it on the streets, this is the way to go. I had to get the Greddy kit because I don't have any hookups at the smog stations to pass me.

Good luck with this but $4000 will not make that car break into the 12 second 1/4 mile. If you are building a quick car, you need to have the dough and not overlook anything.

sherwood

yea, i'd say you're going to need to lay down at least what shmoo, thinkin around 8-12k, probly around 10k range somewhere for an 11 second car.

you would have been better off buying a b18c to start with, cause once they're built the vtec makes up for the displacment's HP (the torque can be handled by boost) and since the cylinder walls are thicker it'll prolly be able to take more boost when built... shoulda considered your choices before you went on your project, i'm still not totally cemented, but i figure i'm weither going ls-turbo, or c5 turbo.. dunno what to tell you man, a 12 second reliable car was definatly not the choice for a b20/vtec, 12 second car, maybe, reliable, no way

daveb91

The JRSC is a great daily driver bolt on but if you want to go past the 6psi the blower gets tempermental and if you are going past that go with a turbo. Now I do know of one B series b16 that does 12's with a JRSC runs the 8psi pulley with the water injection. Also has a LSD and some other bolt ons.

pomansouth

ok, here is my for instance, a guy spent 2000 on a motor build that he put into a crx. he is running a low 13 second 1/4. He built a ls/vtec, ls block, b16 head. with a b20 block, you will have more torque from the get go, so if you bullet proof the bottom end and put some stage 3 cams in, and about a 12:1 comp ratio, you are looking at the highest times from any decient driver being in the low 13's, knowing this, you can break into the 12's with a pair of slicks and a little more motor work, like flat faced valves, tunning, maybe a pnp. its all up to you, how you wanna do it. I am gonna tell you though, the more you tune, the more reliable it will be.....
didnt mean to seem like i cut you down so badly, just meaning to say that to get you to search.

Provocateur

Why would he do that? The water injection is probably hurting his times. The purpose of water injection is to be able to boost more because it dampens detonation by cooling incoming air better and retarding ignition in the cylinders. I would bump the boost up in that case.

1stGenCRXer

Water injection also lets you run higher ignition timing, which can also help power.

AcuraFanatic

1. Sleeves are better than a block guard and will be less likely to distort.
Do an AEM adjustable fuel rail if you're doing oversized injectors and a Warlboro fuel pump
I've found that ITR springs work good for NA vs. something like Skunk2. They have a better fitment and seem to be more reliable. Just FYI.
Oversized throttle body would be better off with your stock intake manifold exude honed or have an aftermarket one. Port and polish is a good idea.

2. Keep stock cams, especially with VTEC. I don't care if they make turbo cams, I've never heard of anybody having any luck with them. And obviously don't do an NA cam. At 12psi I'd consider running forged pistons for reliability. Sleeves probably wouldn't be needed but wouldn't be a bad idea. At 12psi, I'd choose forged pistons over doing sleeves.

3. Not a fan of superchargers on Hondas. They're better off, IMO, for big displacement motors.