Lost all electrical power! Help!!
08-16-2004, 10:58 AM
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Lost all electrical power! Help!!
Just stumbled on this board as I was looking for some answers to a problem my 91 Accord is having.
Last night I was driving home and my electrical system warning indicator came on. I continued to drive the car, hoping I could make it home. About an hour later the speedomoter and tacometer both went to zero, then all my lights began to fade and eventually everything electrical in my car shut off. I could still drive, but VERY SLOW (and it would shudder as I tried to give it gas in an effort to get off the freeway and into a gas station).
I need to fix my car today. Went and had my battery tested and it doesn't even need to be charged (with my limited knowlede of cars if the battery is charged doesn't that sound like the alternator is working?) I briefly read about the common problem with Main Relay's and was wondering if that sounds like it could be the problem?
The electrical warning light has been going on and off over the past couple days while I was out of town. The car never had a problem starting, but it would go on for a little while and then shut off...seemingly randomly it would come on again for a little while and then turn off.
I took the day off work today to fix my car (cause my car is stuck about 60 miles from my house) and I'm hoping to get it repaired today. Any quick help would be very appreciated!!
Last night I was driving home and my electrical system warning indicator came on. I continued to drive the car, hoping I could make it home. About an hour later the speedomoter and tacometer both went to zero, then all my lights began to fade and eventually everything electrical in my car shut off. I could still drive, but VERY SLOW (and it would shudder as I tried to give it gas in an effort to get off the freeway and into a gas station).
I need to fix my car today. Went and had my battery tested and it doesn't even need to be charged (with my limited knowlede of cars if the battery is charged doesn't that sound like the alternator is working?) I briefly read about the common problem with Main Relay's and was wondering if that sounds like it could be the problem?
The electrical warning light has been going on and off over the past couple days while I was out of town. The car never had a problem starting, but it would go on for a little while and then shut off...seemingly randomly it would come on again for a little while and then turn off.
I took the day off work today to fix my car (cause my car is stuck about 60 miles from my house) and I'm hoping to get it repaired today. Any quick help would be very appreciated!!
08-16-2004, 11:16 AM
#2
I don't think the main relay can make things fade out. Power for lights doesn't even go thru the main relay at all.
Sounds like your alternator crapped out, but that doesn't explain why the battery tested good! How was it tested? Open-circuit voltage might still be OK (like simply using a voltmeter). The real test is how does the voltage look while it's supplying a load of, say, 100 amps. If you don't have a load-tester, try measuring battery voltage with headlights & stuff turned on. All the stuff you can possibly turn on, the battery shouldn't drop below maybe 11.5v.
Check all the alternator connections for looseness or corrosion. You might be able to charge your battery with jumper cables, then drive home without headlights (daytime). If your alternator were working, the battery voltage would be about 14v or so while the engine's running.
Sounds like your alternator crapped out, but that doesn't explain why the battery tested good! How was it tested? Open-circuit voltage might still be OK (like simply using a voltmeter). The real test is how does the voltage look while it's supplying a load of, say, 100 amps. If you don't have a load-tester, try measuring battery voltage with headlights & stuff turned on. All the stuff you can possibly turn on, the battery shouldn't drop below maybe 11.5v.
Check all the alternator connections for looseness or corrosion. You might be able to charge your battery with jumper cables, then drive home without headlights (daytime). If your alternator were working, the battery voltage would be about 14v or so while the engine's running.
08-16-2004, 11:20 AM
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I pulled the battery out and took it to Kragen to have it tested (battery is only about 4 months old). They said it was fully charged and in perfect shape.
I bought an alternator. So my plan right now is to take the alternator back to my car (abou 60 miles away) and try to swap it out and hope that is the problem.
Just thought of something else that might help diagnose the problem.
Last night when it died I hooked jumper cables up to my car (with no battery in it, just straight to the battery cables) and jumped my car off of the car that came to pick me up. The car started up and was running fine (power to everything while the jumper cables were hooked up). It did still have the cell for an electrical problem. I don't know if this helps clarify or rule out anything....
Thanks for the help!!
I bought an alternator. So my plan right now is to take the alternator back to my car (abou 60 miles away) and try to swap it out and hope that is the problem.
Just thought of something else that might help diagnose the problem.
Last night when it died I hooked jumper cables up to my car (with no battery in it, just straight to the battery cables) and jumped my car off of the car that came to pick me up. The car started up and was running fine (power to everything while the jumper cables were hooked up). It did still have the cell for an electrical problem. I don't know if this helps clarify or rule out anything....
Thanks for the help!!
08-16-2004, 06:58 PM
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I went to go swap out the alternator on the car hoping it would fix the problem. Well I got there, unplugged the wiring harness from the alt. and it had quite a bit of corrosion on it. So i scraped it down with a wire brush, put the battery back in the car (that Kragen said was charged and "good"), hooked the alt. back up and the car started right up.
I drove it about 60+ miles home with no problems. For about half the time the battery light was on, about half the time it was off.
I then took the car to Kragen for what they advertised as a free electrical system test. The guy came out with some kind of computer. Hooked it up to my battery, had me start the car and after a few minutes said "it says you need to replace your alternator." So I don't know how reliable their test/test equipment is, they weren't trying to sell me anything as I had already bought the alternator earlier in the morning.
Would you trust their diagnosis?
I drove it about 60+ miles home with no problems. For about half the time the battery light was on, about half the time it was off.
I then took the car to Kragen for what they advertised as a free electrical system test. The guy came out with some kind of computer. Hooked it up to my battery, had me start the car and after a few minutes said "it says you need to replace your alternator." So I don't know how reliable their test/test equipment is, they weren't trying to sell me anything as I had already bought the alternator earlier in the morning.
Would you trust their diagnosis?
08-17-2004, 04:10 AM
#7
The other car was running, YOUR battery light was on? The other car's battery light was off? If that's the case, I'd blame the alternator.
But then you found the corroded connections, that can cause the entire mess. Before Kragen tested it, are you sure it was all cleaned off? Maybe you really needed the new alternator, maybe you can clean it better & test OK. (But you already bought the alternator...)
I suppose I'd trust their diagnosis, up to a point. Those corroded connections probably look just like a bad alternator, as far as their tester could tell. If you suspect they're not really cleaned up completely, clean em up & try again. Otherwise, both your battery light & their tester agree that your alternator isn't perfect. Don't forget corrosion where the wire itself is crimped into the connector...
But then you found the corroded connections, that can cause the entire mess. Before Kragen tested it, are you sure it was all cleaned off? Maybe you really needed the new alternator, maybe you can clean it better & test OK. (But you already bought the alternator...)
I suppose I'd trust their diagnosis, up to a point. Those corroded connections probably look just like a bad alternator, as far as their tester could tell. If you suspect they're not really cleaned up completely, clean em up & try again. Otherwise, both your battery light & their tester agree that your alternator isn't perfect. Don't forget corrosion where the wire itself is crimped into the connector...