camber kit question
#6
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The real answer is-MAYBE.
Why? You won't know for sure without putting the car on an alignment rack-period. Camber will go negative from where ever it starts at when you lower the car. Anything over 1" will show a change of ~0.84 degrees for the first 1" and that number will get larger as you get to 2". Our 5th gen is dropped on Neuspeed SPort springs and Koni "yellow" shocks. The front required SPC 67135 kits on both side. The rear is using Ingalls 3571 and 3573. There is NO patent answer as to which parts you need without an alignment measurement and it is possible to wind up needing different pieces from one corner to the next as I did. BTW: my car is absolutely straight-never wrecked-I put it on a frame rack to be sure. As is always the case-you should get the car aligned every time you redo the suspension-at least get the Toe adjusted.
Some people rotate their tires so frequently that it is possible to avoid the worst of the visual perception of wear-use a tread depth gauge to be sure. Another factor that can mislead is the type of tire (ie compound).
Have a great summer.
Why? You won't know for sure without putting the car on an alignment rack-period. Camber will go negative from where ever it starts at when you lower the car. Anything over 1" will show a change of ~0.84 degrees for the first 1" and that number will get larger as you get to 2". Our 5th gen is dropped on Neuspeed SPort springs and Koni "yellow" shocks. The front required SPC 67135 kits on both side. The rear is using Ingalls 3571 and 3573. There is NO patent answer as to which parts you need without an alignment measurement and it is possible to wind up needing different pieces from one corner to the next as I did. BTW: my car is absolutely straight-never wrecked-I put it on a frame rack to be sure. As is always the case-you should get the car aligned every time you redo the suspension-at least get the Toe adjusted.
Some people rotate their tires so frequently that it is possible to avoid the worst of the visual perception of wear-use a tread depth gauge to be sure. Another factor that can mislead is the type of tire (ie compound).
Have a great summer.
#7
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No offense to the previous posters, but read this first.
MOST important:
Get an alignment. Get your toe in spec, or set to zero on all four tires.
When you adjust your ride height and/or your camber, your toe is adversely affected. When you get a coilover kit, you adjust in this order:
1. Ride height
2. Camber
3. Toe
Toe is the last to adjust, but since you cannot adjust camber with the stock equipment and your ride height is pre-determined by your springs (except on an adjustable coilover), you better adjust your toe or you will have bad tire wear. Adding camber gives you toe in. subtracting camber gives you toe out. And in a hurry I might add...and this causes BAD tire wear.
I have 3 degrees of camber in front and 2.5 degrees in rear on my street car. I have PERFECT tire wear. No extra wear at all. Why? I adjusted my height, then my camber, FINALLY I adjusted Toe to 0 front and rear... no problems.
Camber wear is a misnomer - it is really toe wear due to lowering and adding camber. (over 4 degrees of toe and you WILL have odd wear depending on the tire)
Everyone should keep this in mind. It's an undisputable fact.
MOST important:
Get an alignment. Get your toe in spec, or set to zero on all four tires.
When you adjust your ride height and/or your camber, your toe is adversely affected. When you get a coilover kit, you adjust in this order:
1. Ride height
2. Camber
3. Toe
Toe is the last to adjust, but since you cannot adjust camber with the stock equipment and your ride height is pre-determined by your springs (except on an adjustable coilover), you better adjust your toe or you will have bad tire wear. Adding camber gives you toe in. subtracting camber gives you toe out. And in a hurry I might add...and this causes BAD tire wear.
I have 3 degrees of camber in front and 2.5 degrees in rear on my street car. I have PERFECT tire wear. No extra wear at all. Why? I adjusted my height, then my camber, FINALLY I adjusted Toe to 0 front and rear... no problems.
Camber wear is a misnomer - it is really toe wear due to lowering and adding camber. (over 4 degrees of toe and you WILL have odd wear depending on the tire)
Everyone should keep this in mind. It's an undisputable fact.
Last edited by Chris N; 03-29-2004 at 02:55 PM.
#9
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There are several methods available. One is the alignment machine (very very accurate) and another is the old-fashioned string trick-you've seen the NASCAR guys do that one. The better of the 2 is the machine. Go to a reputable shop that has a LASER based rack and get it done. Pep Boys here or my dealer both offer a warranty on their work.
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