Fuelishankh

I want to know if this is a problem. When my ABS kicks in, when I'm sliding in snow or slush, it seems to disengage my clutch. This bothers me simply for the fact that I don't enjoy sliding without at least having control over my speed with my transmission. Is this a normal thing for 4th gens, or do I have a genuine problem? Also, if it is a problem, what should be the best course of action? Should I fix it, put another type of ABS in, or should I put in a manually controlled brake bias system?

ludeboom

uhh
right
the abs does not have control over your clutch line.

the abs merely disconnects your brake pedal from the actual brake system. allowing the abs modulator to effectively apply the most efficient level of braking without locking the wheels.

has nothing to do with your clutch

~boom

Fuelishankh

I know what ABS does. The problem is, is that I do slide in slush and snow, and something kicks in to drop my revs, leaving my speed open to however fast physics wants me to move. I don't have steering control when my ABS kicks in either. Ya know... It's kinda scary when you're sliding downhill, doing about 15 mph into a curve where there are parked cars, and you can't stop yourself. The only thing that saved me was the dryer pavement at the bottom of the hill... which happened to be about 15 feet from the cars. I only want to know if this is a normal thing for these Ludes, or if MY car is the one that has decided to be snafu. And, if it is a problem, what should I do about it, ie. put a new ABS system in or a manually controlled bias system, or just fix the problem? Besides, as far as I can tell (and I have looked at it as best I can), the ABS is somehow connected to the slave cylinder and transaxle. I could be wrong.

fastball

I don't know what you're trying to figure out, but ABS works on Preludes exactly like every other car with ABS. When the ABS computer tells the master cylinder to pump, it pumps. It has nothing to do with how the engine revs (but obviously you would decrease in RPM since you are SLOWING DOWN!). At 15 mph, you'd be close to stalling anyway, so why wouldn't you have the clutch in at that point? And if you haven't yet figured out that you can't steer much on any slipery surface with any car, I question whether you should continue to operate a motor vehicle.

Oh, and if you don't like ABS and you would like what you call a "manually controlled bias system", you can install one by removing the fuse marked "ABS".

manually controlled bias system? :uhhok: :thinking:

ludeboom

the abs is not connected to the clutch and slave cylinder.

the hydraulic hose that runs under the ABS assembly is the clutch line but it does not connect to the ABS system at all...it merely runs underneath and routes to the clutch line damper, which is bolted near the wheel-well.
from the clutch damper, the soft clutch line runs to a solid steel line mounted to your tranny via the tranny-to-engine mount bolts. at which point it connects to the slave cylinder and release fork.

the ABS and clutch are not connected.

on a hill you should not be applying brakes in the snow or ice. simple rule

you should be using engine braking to slow down so as not to lock the wheels or even allow the ABS to kick in.

i have noticed the ABS has trouble on ICE. but then again the ABS is designed to reduce human error in a stressful and accident prone situation... like on the highway, at 120 MPH, when locking your wheels can get you killed. thats how it saved me.

~boom

Fuelishankh

Okay, first off, I kinda resent the remarks about my driving; solely for the fact that when you're driving downhill in snow towards parked cars, the engine doesn't slow you down fast enough, especially when the whole inertia and gravity things decide to help out. You do apply at least a little brake to get you to slow down. My problem is that, at that point in time, my engine drops to idle EVEN WITH THE CLUTCH OUT, and then I lose control. This has happened to me all winter, and I had gotten pretty sick of it, considering the first time it happened I put my passenger side fender and door into a guard rail. And no fastball, you don't stall at 15; trust me. A 92 Si doesn't seem to stall until about 6 mph. If you stall at 15, YOU need to learn how to drive a clutch. Also, a manually controlled bias system is one that you can increase or decrease the pressure going to each individual brake, ie. I can turn the rear pressure up in slippery weather so that the rears brake harder/lock up sooner and don't induce an engine heavy, forward slide. True I might be more prone to my ass end hanging out more or faster, but I would rather take that risk than sliding nose first into a parked car. What I was trying to get out of that statement, is a complete removal of my ABS, not just an override.

ludeboom

locking your rear wheels will send u into a spin or cause you to lose control. the front brakes have the most bias because they have the most weight over them, which helps with traction when slowing down.
u dont want more biased sent to the rear...there is no weight over it, it will lock up.
u cant ever really stall the car if your actually moving, you can be premature in a higher gear, which causes clutch chatter and shuttering.

i still dont understand your point.
it sounds like ur premature in gear going down a snowy hill while braking. and the abs is preventing your wheels from "locking" but since you have the clutch engaged your tires are actually spinning at idle in the snow.

how much tread is on your tires guy?
and how much snow are we talking about here

~boom

BigLew

It also sounds like you drive to fast in the snow to begin with.