Flip flop/ suicide trunk...
08-01-2004, 08:46 PM
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Flip flop/ suicide trunk...
I'm trying to do this mod to my car, but after atleast 3 hours of messing with it, I cannot get it right! The instructions I got are sh1t.. they didnt help at all..
Anyone know a better way to do this, or can help? I know its probably really hard to help over the net..
Just any advice will help
thX
Anyone know a better way to do this, or can help? I know its probably really hard to help over the net..
Just any advice will help
thX
08-01-2004, 09:30 PM
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08-01-2004, 10:40 PM
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"This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification.
Delivery to the following recipients failed.
joshdavis949@hotmail.com"
That's weird. I sent all the files together in one e-mail so I'll try this time with each one in it's own e-mail.
Delivery to the following recipients failed.
joshdavis949@hotmail.com"
That's weird. I sent all the files together in one e-mail so I'll try this time with each one in it's own e-mail.
08-01-2004, 10:48 PM
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Is your mailbox almost full? A couple of them still got bounced back due to their size, although they're not that large. All five together are 1.31MB.
08-02-2004, 12:25 AM
#7
ok if you're going to do it like a few websites I have seen, as in using those hinges, and after you open the trunk you flip it down........thats GAY.
my solution, as I did it on my car and it works perfectly. Bear in mind that it's 2 am here, and I;m very tired.........Here goes
I don't have any set plans for this, as it was done in an afternoon, and me and a friend basically 'wingned' it
you will need 4 of those mini gas shocks found on most boats, they use them on the cupboars and stuff, so when you open the latch the panel flips up slowly. 2 will be one size and 2 will be slightly bigger (I found that it worked best that way, your sizes will differ from mine.)
and you will also need various bolts, and you might even have to fabricate a bracket or 2.
what you first need to do is find out how much clearence you have and the travel you will need to achieve with the system.
once you have that figured out, close the trunk, and lay down on your back inside the trunk, ( best is just to flip down the rear seats....All you Soprano lovin' freaks
) and mark off the locations for the first set of shocks, the smaller ones. Now you will have to eyeball this, but don't worry as it's just a mark, not a hole. what the 2 smaller ones will do is flip the lid 90 degrees. So you will have one side of the gas shock mounted to the trunk arm, the flat part that the trunk lid bolts onto. and the other end bolted to the trunk lid itself. so basically it will do what the hinges did, but automatically. you have to check first with the trunk closed to make sure that once the trunk is closed, the shocks will clear everything inside.
once you mark the location that you plan to bolt them onto, take the lid off and have a friend hold it at 90 degrees with the trunk arms fully extended; then take a minute and move your marks to match the correct angle you desire, so that with the smaller shocks fully extended the trunk is sitting at 90 degrees, and with them fully compressed it sits as if the trunk lid was mounted just as it was in stock form.
There are also 2 hinges that need to be mounted. I chose nice skinny hinges that were the exact width of the trunk arm, they are mounted towards the ends of each trunk arm, so that without any shocks mojnted, the trunk will flip at least 90 degrees, or whatever the desired angle is.
now on to the 2nd set, these are optional, but not as far as I'm concerend. what they do is extend, thus opening the trunk as the lid is rotating to the 90 degree point. thats why the ones you select have to be matched, not to one another but the bigger ones have to extend at a rate, that gives the 2 smaller ones enough time to extend themselves, but at the same time. So what you get is your trunk opening, (truhnk arms rotating to their 90 degree point, or roughly, and the trunk lid retating to it's 90 degree point as well, all at the same time.)
they are mounted, on my car at least to the under portion of the rear deck lid, (where the speakers are in the back) and then attached to the end of each arm...once again if the shocks are fully compressed the trunk arms are closed as they should be, but fully extended, the trunk arms have rotated to the exact point they would have if it were still stock.
just to back track a little. I have a mig welder, and was able to easily weld tiny brackets to bolt the shocks to the trunk lid, you will either have to do the same or find another way of attaching them to the trunk lid. There are other ways of doing this, actuators were going to be used, but they are expensive, and the shocks were cheap. I opted to go with Autoloc's remote trunk popper, as it makes it that much cooler. but you don't have to, it will work perfectly without it.
Another thing I must mention again, thats how I did it, you will have to make your own mesurments, and brackets to make it work for your application, and as long as you get a mental picture of what I am trying to explain, you shouldn't have a problem.
The end result..... once the trunk is popped, the trunk raises at dead level, no flop.....
if you have any questions, let me know and I will try to explain myself more if needed,
regards, Mark
my solution, as I did it on my car and it works perfectly. Bear in mind that it's 2 am here, and I;m very tired.........Here goes
I don't have any set plans for this, as it was done in an afternoon, and me and a friend basically 'wingned' it
you will need 4 of those mini gas shocks found on most boats, they use them on the cupboars and stuff, so when you open the latch the panel flips up slowly. 2 will be one size and 2 will be slightly bigger (I found that it worked best that way, your sizes will differ from mine.)
and you will also need various bolts, and you might even have to fabricate a bracket or 2.
what you first need to do is find out how much clearence you have and the travel you will need to achieve with the system.
once you have that figured out, close the trunk, and lay down on your back inside the trunk, ( best is just to flip down the rear seats....All you Soprano lovin' freaks
) and mark off the locations for the first set of shocks, the smaller ones. Now you will have to eyeball this, but don't worry as it's just a mark, not a hole. what the 2 smaller ones will do is flip the lid 90 degrees. So you will have one side of the gas shock mounted to the trunk arm, the flat part that the trunk lid bolts onto. and the other end bolted to the trunk lid itself. so basically it will do what the hinges did, but automatically. you have to check first with the trunk closed to make sure that once the trunk is closed, the shocks will clear everything inside.once you mark the location that you plan to bolt them onto, take the lid off and have a friend hold it at 90 degrees with the trunk arms fully extended; then take a minute and move your marks to match the correct angle you desire, so that with the smaller shocks fully extended the trunk is sitting at 90 degrees, and with them fully compressed it sits as if the trunk lid was mounted just as it was in stock form.
There are also 2 hinges that need to be mounted. I chose nice skinny hinges that were the exact width of the trunk arm, they are mounted towards the ends of each trunk arm, so that without any shocks mojnted, the trunk will flip at least 90 degrees, or whatever the desired angle is.
now on to the 2nd set, these are optional, but not as far as I'm concerend. what they do is extend, thus opening the trunk as the lid is rotating to the 90 degree point. thats why the ones you select have to be matched, not to one another but the bigger ones have to extend at a rate, that gives the 2 smaller ones enough time to extend themselves, but at the same time. So what you get is your trunk opening, (truhnk arms rotating to their 90 degree point, or roughly, and the trunk lid retating to it's 90 degree point as well, all at the same time.)
they are mounted, on my car at least to the under portion of the rear deck lid, (where the speakers are in the back) and then attached to the end of each arm...once again if the shocks are fully compressed the trunk arms are closed as they should be, but fully extended, the trunk arms have rotated to the exact point they would have if it were still stock.
just to back track a little. I have a mig welder, and was able to easily weld tiny brackets to bolt the shocks to the trunk lid, you will either have to do the same or find another way of attaching them to the trunk lid. There are other ways of doing this, actuators were going to be used, but they are expensive, and the shocks were cheap. I opted to go with Autoloc's remote trunk popper, as it makes it that much cooler. but you don't have to, it will work perfectly without it.
Another thing I must mention again, thats how I did it, you will have to make your own mesurments, and brackets to make it work for your application, and as long as you get a mental picture of what I am trying to explain, you shouldn't have a problem.
The end result..... once the trunk is popped, the trunk raises at dead level, no flop.....
if you have any questions, let me know and I will try to explain myself more if needed,
regards, Mark
04-24-2005, 01:54 PM
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hey i know this is kinda old but i was wondering if anyone still has the write-up with pics ? i kinda get the instructions but i need visuals. thanks its for a 6thgen accord coupe
, but i guess its all universal
email = Wuzkrackin83@gmail.com
thanks
, but i guess its all universal
email = Wuzkrackin83@gmail.com
thanks
