TheOtherDave™

No apology needed; in fact, thank you for searching.
The special tool they're talking about can be replicated with a big C-clamp.

As you retract the piston, it will need to rotate within the bore of the caliper body as it retracts. It's part of the mechanism that operates the rear calipers as the parking brake.

With the open end of the caliper facing down, the piston rotates clockwise on a 1997 Integra; I would expect it to be the same on your RSX.

Since you mention that the pad wear is uneven, inspect the seals and the back of the inside pad for fluid loss. Also, confirm that the slider pins are lubed and allow the caliper to center itself over the rotor to accommodate pad wear.

Lastly, welcome to the board. :cheers:

red02rsxokc

Thanks. I suspect the slider pins may be in a bind or something. I have near 100% wear on the inner pad and about 60% on the outer.

So, with the C-clamp in place as I face the caliper piston, it should turn clockwise?

Since the turning feature is related to the parking brake function and since I use the parking break every time I park it, the piston should be accustomed to turning and shouldn't be frozen up or anything, you think?

Appreciate your opinions.

TheOtherDave™

Yes, assuming they didn't spuriously decide to change things.
As the C-clamp bears down on the piston, it should rotate clockwise.

Yep. If you encounter a lot of resistance, it's likely coming from the adjustment spring inside the caliper. It highly unlikely for that spring to fail. But if it has and the piston cannot rotate, the fastest and safest option is to replace the caliper altogether.

In my opinion, it's much more likely that the slider pins aren't well lubricated and the caliper isn't centering properly.

red02rsxokc

I finally got the acura manual to download from hondahookup.com and copied off the pages for the brakes. Except for the rotating pistons on the back, it doesn't look any different from Nissan brakes which I have done 3 or 4 times. If I can't get that one caliper to work right, I will just get a new one put on. I plan to take it in for brake fluid replacement anyway.

Do I want ceramic pads for normal daily driving?

TheOtherDave™

Hell, if you've got the brake fluid and proper wrenches on hand, bleeding the brakes isn't a difficult process. Helps to have two people, though.

I'm on the fence about ceramic pads, frankly.
I don't think the low dust generation and slightly longer life are worth the premium.

On my GTi — which I drove very hard on a routine basis — I used EBC RedStuff pads for their high heat tolerance. Since I moved to the Integra, though I've been using Raybestos OEM replacements without complaint.

red02rsxokc

I ordered Raybestos QS Ceramics from Partstrain.com for ~$89 shipped. We'll see how it goes in a week or so.

thetunersource

bleeding brakes are easy if you get the do it yourself one person quick bleeders!

red02rsxokc

I used a bleeder device years ago that I can rent from the auto hobby shop where I work, but I just don't want to do that.

I put the pads on Saturday. I bought a little cube shaped tool that you turn with a 3/8" driver to compress the rear pistons...worked like a charm. I think I need a new seal on one of them, however. The center of the little boot wouldn't stay in the groove on the piston on one side. Do those seals just pull out and push back in?

Also, the front pads had to be tapped into place as they were just slightly too wide to put in by hand. They seem to be working fine, however.

I re-greased all the sliders...one on the heavily worn side seemed to move less easily than the others. All the inside pads were worn more than the corresponding outside pad. All the squealing notwithstanding, the bad pad still had some friction material left...no rotor damage.

Appreciate the opinions here. Please let me know about changing out that seal.

Thanks.

thetunersource

you can buy bleeders fairly cheaply as well