won't start
 

i have a 93 prelude si with a h22 swap. i just had the swap done i got it back thurs. ran great but idle at 2000 rpms. then today when i started it and went to work it had a clanking noise around the timing belt cover when it was idling, but not when i was giving it gas. well i turned the car off went to work tried to start when i was leaving now it wont start it's not firing. when i crank on it you can hear the clanking noise in the timing belt area. i had the both belts replaced along with water pump when motor was installed. could have the timing belt broke already please any insight will help :confused:

Take the valve cover off and make sure the belts are on tight enough. Maybe your belts are loose, or maybe it has fallen off.

oh man i hope to god im wrong and the other guy too. your timing could be off. and if it is bad enough that "clanking noise" could be your valves and your pistons hitting eachother. i highly doubt that you motor is non-interferance and if it isnt and the valves and pistons hit that could mean new valves and possibly new pistons also. get it checked asap better yet take it back to the people that did your install and make them fix it. let me know how all this turns out

the motor is interference
id say all hondas except MAYBE the accord V6 are

but id say all hondas are in general

if the mechanic didnt tension the belt correctly then it probably skipped teeth until it bent your valves and basically destroyed your head
so its new motor time unless its something stupid
if u were in NY u could bring it to my farm and id tell you for sure and either way be able to fix it, just a matter of money

take it back to the place that did your swap or whatever

however to self diagnose it you should remove the valve cover (a handful of 10mm bolts and some wire clips, etc. easy stuff)

check the belt, it should be dead-ass tight no play, if you can pull the belt, it is done for
also check the 2 cam gears, each will have an arrow for top dead center position, and 2 other notchs on each, just make sure they are symetrical

you will probably be able to tell if they arent

good luck

~boomer

well it's bad news the mechanic said the tensioner bolt snapped and that my it caused my timing to be off. he said it was off by 15 teeth and that he's pretty sure it bent my valves and rods now here is my question? does anybody know where i can get a book or something so me and friend can redo all the work that is need to fix this promblem my friend is used to working on v8's and not to familiar with 4's but he said if i got material on how to fix everything he could do it. i'm not trying to have the mechanic work on it anymore.

wow man, that blows

you will need major head work
in fact id recommend dumping that head cause chances are the guides are bent anyway, and headwork can tend to get expensive by itself

you should be able to find an h22a head used around here for like 400 bux or so, maybe less, depends on wear etc.

ur rods arent bent, that mechanic is a bonehead

u might have dinged your pistons, but u can keep em if u run 93 octane all the time to prevent detonation. u should be running minimum of 91 in that motor anyway.

ull need timing belt, tensioner, head, and thats probably it.

i just finished putting my engine back in my car an hour ago, built up the tranny a little, added ACT kit, changed synchros, added type-S cams and skunk2 gears, changed the rubber band

engine had 40k on it but i was takin it out anyway so might as well change the belt

tell your friend to forget all the V8 stuff, he'll be snapping bolts left and right and your motor will leak oil after the work.

ill make you up a little pictoral how-to, its late tho so PM me and ill get u it soon

lata
~boomer

ok dude this is a bad situation not just for you but for the mechanic. get it fixed and send him the bill!!!

yeah i thought it was his fault but he said the bolt was rusted pretty bad and that it must have snapped because of it not because he over tightened it or he installed wrong he told me since there was a warranty on the motor that i should call the place and tell them about it i did and they said it had to be the mechanics fault that they wouldn't replace and the mechanic said it wasn't his fault that he wasn't going to pay to have it fixed. so i guess i'm pretty much screwed so i guess i'll look for a head now thanks everybody for their input

ive never seen a tensioner bolt rust
or snap for that matter
the are coated with gold cadnium coating to prevent rusting

fact is he was the last one to touch it, its his fault
call the BBB, (better business bureau) or call the DMV

in NY, EVERY licensed repair station has to give a mandatory minimum of 30 days warranty, if they dont or refuse to fix the problem the DMV here will revoke their repair license and then they are ****ed.

so you better start making a stink pal cause that is just not right, 90% of these "mechanics" dont know what the **** they are doing especially when it comes to hondas and imports in general

dont give up your rights to some mechanic who didnt finish high school and thinks hes tought shit with a wrench in his hand and an attitude about his work

~boomer

hey thank's ludeboom i appreciate all the help and i'm looking into the whole bbb thing and the dmv i will get justice somehow even if it's my own justice