Bogging and near stalling at WoT
03-30-2012, 08:53 AM
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Bogging and near stalling at WoT
At my wits end with this issue, thought I'd finally seek some guidance.
Yesterday my wifes 1996 automatic integra starting displaying symptoms of a dead fuel pump. Pulled the pump, replaced with a new one from my local parts store, replaced the screen and fuel filter, inspected tank. Everything was running fine. Decided to check the timing and it was way off. Jumped the ECU and set timing to correct settings. A slow and steady pressure on the gas pedal will allow the car to accelerate properly, but if I mash on the pedal or go into WoT, the car bogs down and I get a deep noise coming from the intake. The automatic transmission will change gears if I try to just push my way thru the bogging, other times the car will nearly stall, but not completely stall out.
I'm lost, new pump, new filter, new screen and the car ran fine. Adjust timing to proper 16 degrees and I'm having issues.
TYIA
Yesterday my wifes 1996 automatic integra starting displaying symptoms of a dead fuel pump. Pulled the pump, replaced with a new one from my local parts store, replaced the screen and fuel filter, inspected tank. Everything was running fine. Decided to check the timing and it was way off. Jumped the ECU and set timing to correct settings. A slow and steady pressure on the gas pedal will allow the car to accelerate properly, but if I mash on the pedal or go into WoT, the car bogs down and I get a deep noise coming from the intake. The automatic transmission will change gears if I try to just push my way thru the bogging, other times the car will nearly stall, but not completely stall out.
I'm lost, new pump, new filter, new screen and the car ran fine. Adjust timing to proper 16 degrees and I'm having issues.
TYIA
Last edited by Bivrington; 03-30-2012 at 11:41 AM.
03-30-2012, 10:19 AM
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Checked TPS, it is reading .59
From what I have read it should be at .50, but it is riveted on so I am unable to turn the TPS to get it down to .50
update: Was able to get the TPS set, it is at .50 with car on but not running. Still having issues with bogging. Seems now it is bogging down between 2k and 3k RPM, once i get past 3k I can go wide open and no bogging issues, when before it would bog no matter when i went wide open.
Pulled plugs to inspect, plugs were all different gaps (i had set to .044 when I installed). Ranging from 0.45 to 0.54. Plugs have that lovely white burnt look to them, electrode shows no sign of wear. Re-gapped and no change.
Dizzy was changed about a year ago, dizzy cap has some oil in the bottom, however none on the rotor or contacts. Cylinder 1 and 2 do NOT fire while the engine is doing its bogging down deal.
From what I have read it should be at .50, but it is riveted on so I am unable to turn the TPS to get it down to .50
update: Was able to get the TPS set, it is at .50 with car on but not running. Still having issues with bogging. Seems now it is bogging down between 2k and 3k RPM, once i get past 3k I can go wide open and no bogging issues, when before it would bog no matter when i went wide open.
Pulled plugs to inspect, plugs were all different gaps (i had set to .044 when I installed). Ranging from 0.45 to 0.54. Plugs have that lovely white burnt look to them, electrode shows no sign of wear. Re-gapped and no change.
Dizzy was changed about a year ago, dizzy cap has some oil in the bottom, however none on the rotor or contacts. Cylinder 1 and 2 do NOT fire while the engine is doing its bogging down deal.
Last edited by Bivrington; 03-30-2012 at 12:53 PM.
03-31-2012, 09:26 PM
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Turns out I had several things go bad in sequence. Fuel pump failed, fixed that as mentioned. After putting timing back where it should be, two spark plug wires failed.
Oh well, at least I got multiple things checked and fixed in the process of diagnosing and fixing. At least it wasnt the distributor.
Oh well, at least I got multiple things checked and fixed in the process of diagnosing and fixing. At least it wasnt the distributor.
