All Motor Ls--- B18B1 mods
04-22-2003, 08:34 PM
#41
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by dubster99
The rod/stroke ratio isn't the culprit of the LS/VTEC, it's not much different from a GSR. It's the rod bolts that go out at 8k. You can rev a stock LS block to 7500 safely, and thats all you need. The GSR tranny also has shorter 3-4-5 gears than the LS, so a GSR tranny would be a good add on too. A correct LS/VTEC is not cheap or easy.
The rod/stroke ratio isn't the culprit of the LS/VTEC, it's not much different from a GSR. It's the rod bolts that go out at 8k. You can rev a stock LS block to 7500 safely, and thats all you need. The GSR tranny also has shorter 3-4-5 gears than the LS, so a GSR tranny would be a good add on too. A correct LS/VTEC is not cheap or easy.
04-22-2003, 11:08 PM
#42
I
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Westside til I die
Posts: 56,525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you know what the R/S ratio of the LS is, versus the GSR/ITR? They aren't all that much different. 1.54:1 versus 1.58:1.....the R/S ratio is not why LS/VTEC motors blow, it's because people just slap a VTEC head onto an LS block, and think it can take 8k+ rpms in stock form. The stock rod bolts like to stretch under that kind of load, which is NOT good.
04-23-2003, 02:41 AM
#43
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
actually the rod/stroke ratio changes very much, and this is the reason why you shouldn't rev past 6500 with ls/vtec.... That is assuming you use a b18b1 block though... Yes ls/vtec is very cheap the way most people do it, but it would be very expensive if you did it the right way, and strengthened your bottom end, but no one does that. It would make all to much sense to build a strong engine, lolz....
04-23-2003, 07:05 AM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You want to go faster, not to be a dick but learning to drive will net you better ETs than buying a bunch of shit. You should do a LOT of weight reduction, I have a friend in his 95 LS he has ran a 14.7 w/ MAJOR weight reduction and a GSR tranny, normal bolt ons apply. My GSR w/ a full interior and half the mods runs better. Dubbster uses N2O so he should be suggestioning you get gas but all-motor is what you want, you say $$$ is an issue but all-motor is proven to be more expensive in the long run than ANY FI setup!
1st-learn to drive
2nd-plot out your mindset better, allmotor is the most expensive in the long run, a simple N2O setup will net you the quickest gains, SC or Turbo will be the most up front but also produce the most hp per dollar.
3rd-weight reduction
4th-change tranny
Have I left anything out??? I am not meaning to be rude, just pointing out the FACTS.
1st-learn to drive
2nd-plot out your mindset better, allmotor is the most expensive in the long run, a simple N2O setup will net you the quickest gains, SC or Turbo will be the most up front but also produce the most hp per dollar.
3rd-weight reduction
4th-change tranny
Have I left anything out??? I am not meaning to be rude, just pointing out the FACTS.