'88 Integra Running Slightly Hotter After New Radiator
10-06-2009, 12:36 AM
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'88 Integra Running Slightly Hotter After New Radiator
Hello,
A few months back I installed a new radiator in my 1988 Integra. Everything works fine with the exception that the thermostat reading is slightly higher than before. Doesn't read in the critical range just a little hotter. This is confirmed by the spark plugs having a grayish look to them similar to the shop manual photos of hotter running engine.
When replacing the radiator the only thing that caused me problems was removing the engine block plug (couldn't remove and thought that a little old fluid might not hurt) and performing a flush. Is there special equipment for thorough flushing? Should I take it in to have this done or could the problem lie somewhere else?
Any ideas or insights appreciated. Thanks in advance.
A few months back I installed a new radiator in my 1988 Integra. Everything works fine with the exception that the thermostat reading is slightly higher than before. Doesn't read in the critical range just a little hotter. This is confirmed by the spark plugs having a grayish look to them similar to the shop manual photos of hotter running engine.
When replacing the radiator the only thing that caused me problems was removing the engine block plug (couldn't remove and thought that a little old fluid might not hurt) and performing a flush. Is there special equipment for thorough flushing? Should I take it in to have this done or could the problem lie somewhere else?
Any ideas or insights appreciated. Thanks in advance.
10-06-2009, 07:19 AM
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Sounds like you might have some air stuck in the block. Not sure on the procedure for the 88, but it usually takes a while to get all the air out of the system. I'm sure someone here can advise you of the proper way.
10-06-2009, 09:58 AM
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no special equipment needed to do the flush. i think it just has bubbles in it. I never really opened the bolt on the block. I dont think its absolutely needed.
After adding fluid, you should start up the cold engine and leave the radiator cap off. Wait for the engine to get hot (about 15-20 min should be good) so that the thermostat opens up. You should see bubbles come up. Add more fluid/water as needed, then cap it off.
some hondas have a bleeder bolt at the end of the top radiator tube. I never use it. In fact i dont really know the proper way to use it. i believe you can bleed bubbles there too. but be carefull, the water is boiling hot, dont get splashed.
also note: DONT take off the cap on a hot engine. wait for the engine to cool, take the cap off, THEN start the engine, and wait for bubbles to come out.
Another problem could be that the thermostat needs to be changed. Check you manual for suggested change intervals.
I usually change my thermostat 40,000 miles or every 2years for the amount of miles i drive.
After adding fluid, you should start up the cold engine and leave the radiator cap off. Wait for the engine to get hot (about 15-20 min should be good) so that the thermostat opens up. You should see bubbles come up. Add more fluid/water as needed, then cap it off.
some hondas have a bleeder bolt at the end of the top radiator tube. I never use it. In fact i dont really know the proper way to use it. i believe you can bleed bubbles there too. but be carefull, the water is boiling hot, dont get splashed.
also note: DONT take off the cap on a hot engine. wait for the engine to cool, take the cap off, THEN start the engine, and wait for bubbles to come out.
Another problem could be that the thermostat needs to be changed. Check you manual for suggested change intervals.
I usually change my thermostat 40,000 miles or every 2years for the amount of miles i drive.
Last edited by Alfred5279; 10-06-2009 at 10:00 AM.
10-06-2009, 12:48 PM
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did u fill up the block with coolant ? i know it seems basic, but a lot of people skip it when doing a drain/refill.
i've seen a lot of people fill up the radiator by pouring it in the top of the radiator...and thats it. You have to also fill the block by pouring it in via the upper radiator hose.
if you did that, maybe something corroded?
i've seen a lot of people fill up the radiator by pouring it in the top of the radiator...and thats it. You have to also fill the block by pouring it in via the upper radiator hose.
if you did that, maybe something corroded?
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10-06-2009, 06:35 PM
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Like I said, it's been about six months but my recollection now is that I couldn't remove the lower engine block plug. I removed the bleeder bolt on the top of the engine block (to remove air bubbles) and fluid started flowing out so I immediately screwed the bolt back in and filled the radiator with fluid through the top of the radiator. Reviewing the Haynes Repair Manual instructions I was following, it says to run the engine with the cap off until upper hose is warm and then add more fluid, if necessary. The instructions don't say anything about filling the block through the upper radiator hose. So, does it sound like I inadvertently let some air in somehow? Should I remove the upper radiator hose and fill it with antifreeze? If I could catch a $39.99 sale on flushing the radiator I'd go for it but without a sale I think the rate is $70-100 - a little steep if the solution is simply adding fluid to the upper radiator hose. Thanks again. You guys are the best!
10-06-2009, 08:03 PM
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if fluid started flowing out then it should mean the block actually has fluid. so you're good there.
would u happen to have a coolant system pressure test kit?
if theres a leak in the cooling system and it cant hold its 1.1 BAR internal (~15psi) pressure then the boiling point of the coolant isnt as high as it should be. places to look for a leak are radiator caps, overflow nipples, freeze plugs, heater lines, etc.
would u happen to have a coolant system pressure test kit?
if theres a leak in the cooling system and it cant hold its 1.1 BAR internal (~15psi) pressure then the boiling point of the coolant isnt as high as it should be. places to look for a leak are radiator caps, overflow nipples, freeze plugs, heater lines, etc.
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10-12-2009, 04:56 PM
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Problem Likely Solved
Thanks for all of the helpful replies.
Although probably need more time to confirm, initial impression is that the radiator cap was the weak link. Following Spec R's suggestion of looking for weak pressure in coolant system I replaced the radiator cap and temp gauge seems to be back at the same spot it has spent the past 21 years. Gotta love those simple, inexpensive solutions!
Although probably need more time to confirm, initial impression is that the radiator cap was the weak link. Following Spec R's suggestion of looking for weak pressure in coolant system I replaced the radiator cap and temp gauge seems to be back at the same spot it has spent the past 21 years. Gotta love those simple, inexpensive solutions!
10-16-2009, 10:08 AM
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no special equipment needed to do the flush. i think it just has bubbles in it. I never really opened the bolt on the block. I dont think its absolutely needed.
After adding fluid, you should start up the cold engine and leave the radiator cap off. Wait for the engine to get hot (about 15-20 min should be good) so that the thermostat opens up. You should see bubbles come up. Add more fluid/water as needed, then cap it off.
some hondas have a bleeder bolt at the end of the top radiator tube. I never use it. In fact i dont really know the proper way to use it. i believe you can bleed bubbles there too. but be carefull, the water is boiling hot, dont get splashed.
also note: DONT take off the cap on a hot engine. wait for the engine to cool, take the cap off, THEN start the engine, and wait for bubbles to come out.
Another problem could be that the thermostat needs to be changed. Check you manual for suggested change intervals.
I usually change my thermostat 40,000 miles or every 2years for the amount of miles i drive.
After adding fluid, you should start up the cold engine and leave the radiator cap off. Wait for the engine to get hot (about 15-20 min should be good) so that the thermostat opens up. You should see bubbles come up. Add more fluid/water as needed, then cap it off.
some hondas have a bleeder bolt at the end of the top radiator tube. I never use it. In fact i dont really know the proper way to use it. i believe you can bleed bubbles there too. but be carefull, the water is boiling hot, dont get splashed.
also note: DONT take off the cap on a hot engine. wait for the engine to cool, take the cap off, THEN start the engine, and wait for bubbles to come out.
Another problem could be that the thermostat needs to be changed. Check you manual for suggested change intervals.
I usually change my thermostat 40,000 miles or every 2years for the amount of miles i drive.
Thanks,
My 96 GSR has 297,000 miles and I have changed the radiator twice and it has ran warmer since I changed it the first time at 135,000 miles. The new radiator is suppose to be heavier than the OEM but it runs warmer. I noticed that it has bigger tubes running through it but since the tubes are bigger, there are less tubes than the OEM. I think the tubes are called cores but I dont remember... I't try you technique.
