JoePoonani

Good to hear that you figured this out. There might be air in the lines so just bleed them first. Did you use a line wrench for the fittings? Open ended wrenches are more prone to slipping.

AcuraLsSE

Sounds like air in the lines to me. Be sure not to forget to bleed them.

Spec R

yeah theres no way theres NOT air in the system after swapping out the MC. bleed the rest of the system asap.

CraigK

Just a follow-up to this thread.

As expected and indicated by myself and others, once the brake system was properly bled, pedal feel stiffened considerably.

Also, please note that the part number I specified above for Dorman (HELP! brand) Speed Bleeder bleeder valves was NOT correct. The Dorman# 12705 speed bleeder valves DID NOT FIT either the front or rear calipers on my car. The 12705's are M8 thread (8mm), and the actual bleeder valves on my 92 Teg appear to be M10 (10mm). Perhaps all of my brake calipers have been replaced with aftermarket units that have different sized valves, but none were the specified M8's. If I am able to identify a Speed Bleeder product that fits (Dorman Tech was no help), I'll post the brand and part#.

CraigK

JoePoonani

If you buy aftermarket calipers they will usually have a different bleeder screw of a different size. I usually just have a friend help me bleed each caliper when I replace them. When done properly it should only take 10 minutes at the most if you already gravity bled the calipers. That's why I say save your money and buy something more useful, like a cordless 3/8 impact driver :irock:

Waqarm

I have a master cylinder that is leaking internally on a 96 Integra GSR with ABS--the pedal falls to floor and repumping it builds up pressure.

I would appreciate any comments about the following questions.

1. (a) How does replacing seals compare with replacing the whole cylinder in terms of difficulty, and (b) where can I get seals (I have not been able to find any place that carries seals and the only seal I have found anyone to carry is the rod seal that goes between the cylinder and the booster)?

2. When I speak with a mechanic about a remanufactured master cylinder, they say they would not install it to avoid recurring issues. They said that the remanufactured ones are made from Aluminum whereas the good quality ones are made from steel. Any comments about using a remanufactured master cylinder?

3. Does anyone have feedback about Centric components. Because brakes are critical, I have considered going to a mechanic. He uses PBR or Alder and says if I provide a Centric (which costs significantly less) and have him install, there would be a question about warranty and labor charges if anything comes up again.

Thanks in advance!