Picked up a 91 Integra to replace my 89 that finally died on me at 320k. The 91 hasn't been driven much in the past year. Had to replace the brake master cylinder when the pedal slowly went to the floor. Bench bled the new cylinder. Seemed okay for a week, then gradually got much lower. Tried bleeding again. RR and LF went fine, but can't get any air or fluid at all out of the LR and RF and the pedal doesn't drop at all. Seems like I'm hearing some air leakage around the LF, especially when raising the pedal after closing the bleeder. I'm not losing any fluid and no signs of leakage, except maybe a little on the front line on the MC. I don't want to over-torque it, though. Might see about borrowing a tubing wrench. Any suggestions for troubleshooting? Thanks, Dave

BTW, not an ABS.

 

i would def. get new bleeder screws for the wheels you have issues on and the ones that arent flowing air or fluid i would close all other screws and leave that one open and pump the hell outta my brake petal until there was fluid flowing i would use a dot 4 or better full synthetic brake fluid and once you have fluid flowing freely out all bleeder screws i would re bleed em all as follows RR,LR,RF,LF! always,always making sure ur master cylinder stays full or close to full of fluid!hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the reply.

Hadn't thought about the possibility of the bleeders being blocked. I'll take one off and check it out. Your bleeding sequence is different from what I read in a scanned copy of a service manual published by Honda, although I'm not sure that matters at this point.

Wondering if my "assistant" might have damaged the new MC by going to the floor? Would that affect only these two wheels? Could that be the noise I'm hearing around the LF caliper since it's not far from the MC?

 

if ur left front caliper is making noise like a hissing it is more likely the piston in the caliper is leaking or the seal around it is. but you said now the pedal isnt going to the floor so that doesnt add up either??? as far as the bleeding sequence,you may be right but i always start with the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder then work my way back as i stated earlier.but do what makes you happy man. i would def replace the bleeder screws tho they are like 10 cents v.s. the caliper if ur not getting any fluid out the bleeder then there is a blockage somewherein order to clear it completely remove the bleeder screw to allow the blockage to come out while pumping either brake fluid through the lines or if you wanna get em really clean you can go with like kerosene but just make sure you re-bleed with good fluid extra good if you do a full break line flush! and i hope you understand all other bleeder valves will have to be closed while you are flushing the one that isnt flowing and that one has to be COMPLETELY REMOVED! hope this helps.

 

Well, it seems that my rebuilt master cylinder must have failed. Swapped it out and everything's working again. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

i also had a similar problem with my 91 teg. it would go to the floor but the car stopped. All i had to do was bleed them but i noticed at the last moment that the brake fluid cap was somehow on wrong...apparantly the person i got the car from didnt know what an arrow pointing to the front meant