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B18a1 tdc

Old 06-28-2009, 02:44 PM
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joe_kewl81
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Default B18a1 tdc

So I have a 91 Integra....Im pretty sure the timing belt has never been replaced...no big deal i have every intention of replacing it. Anyway the timing belt is loose, which seems to be my obvious problem. I do have spark and i am getting fuel. The car tries damn hard to start but wont. I have taken off the the timing belt and reset the valve timing because it had slipped and the car stopped running. I disconnected the battery to reset the computer and pulled the spark plug to check out the piston to attempt top dead center. It ran great for a couple days, better than when i got it. The timing belt was flapping around making terrible noise, but it was running. Then only a block from home after a test drive, it began missing and dying. I pushed it back home and tried again to reset the timing. Now it wont start at all. Ive tried again to reset the valve timing, but my main problem is top dead center. I'm assuming i need to removed the crank pulley, remove the timing cover, and look for a mark. What is my indicator on the engine and what is my indicator on the crank shaft? Also my old sentra was supposed to be set to 5 degrees before TDC. so is this honda the same? Or is it supposed to be at zero or perhaps 5 after? Maybe even 10 either direction. I have done this before, just not with this car. I suppose I'll just buy a chilton's lol.
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:00 AM
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Off the top of my head, the B18A1 should be timed at 10° BTDC, but check that against the Chilton manual.
What worries me most is the sound coming from your timing belt.

With all due respect, stop messing around and replace the timing belt, the tensioner and the water pump ASAP.
If the belt fails, valves and pistons will collide with wallet-flattening consequences.
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by TheOtherDave™ View Post
Off the top of my head, the B18A1 should be timed at 10° BTDC, but check that against the Chilton manual.
What worries me most is the sound coming from your timing belt.

With all due respect, stop messing around and replace the timing belt, the tensioner and the water pump ASAP.
If the belt fails, valves and pistons will collide with wallet-flattening consequences.
By the way, what is the life of a timing belt for a '91 Integra? I have only 68,000 miles on mine.
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Old 06-29-2009, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by martinjsxx View Post
By the way, what is the life of a timing belt for a '91 Integra? I have only 68,000 miles on mine.
90K miles is the typical replacement interval, but since it degrades with heat, there's a time component as well.

Obviously, replacing the belt is much cheaper than repairing the top end after it snaps. I would replace the belt now unless you have proof it was done in the last five years.

It's the noises you describe that makes me think your timing belt tensioner is on its last legs. You might get luck and only jump a tooth or two when it fails, but I would not take that risk.
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Old 06-29-2009, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TheOtherDave™ View Post
90K miles is the typical replacement interval, but since it degrades with heat, there's a time component as well.

Obviously, replacing the belt is much cheaper than repairing the top end after it snaps. I would replace the belt now unless you have proof it was done in the last five years.

It's the noises you describe that makes me think your timing belt tensioner is on its last legs. You might get luck and only jump a tooth or two when it fails, but I would not take that risk.
Thanks for the reply but I was not the original poster, just jumping in when I saw the topic. Do you have an idea what a reasonable price would be to have the belt replaced by an independent mechanic?
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Old 06-29-2009, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by martinjsxx View Post
Thanks for the reply but I was not the original poster, just jumping in when I saw the topic. Do you have an idea what a reasonable price would be to have the belt replaced by an independent mechanic?
So much for my reading comprehension. :oh:
In my defense, I didn't see the OP's avatar and shot from the hip.

$400-ish maybe? I've done mine myself, so consider that a wild ass guess.
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Old 06-29-2009, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by TheOtherDave™ View Post
So much for my reading comprehension. :oh:
In my defense, I didn't see the OP's avatar and shot from the hip.

$400-ish maybe? I've done mine myself, so consider that a wild ass guess.
Thanks for the estimate. Given the labor intensive effort in replacing the timing belt, are there other things that should be replaced at the same time like the water pump? I think I heard that somewhere, but could be wrong.
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by martinjsxx View Post
Thanks for the estimate. Given the labor intensive effort in replacing the timing belt, are there other things that should be replaced at the same time like the water pump? I think I heard that somewhere, but could be wrong.
Yes. The water pump is driven by the timing belt and should be replaced out of an abundance of caution.
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:07 PM
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I don't know how much of this is true to the B18a1 but the B18b1 has two 5 mm holes in the cam and the cap that retains the cam (the one right next to the cam gear). With that you have your cams set to top dead center. As for the crank, there are 4 marks on the crank pully. Three right next to each other and one thats by its self. Line that up with the little tab on the timing cover or the arrow on the oil pump and you should have it set. The books says to then rotate the crank 4 to 6 times until you reach TDC again. Turn the cam gears 3 teeth counter clock wise (The way honda engines rotate). Then tighten the tensioner to 40 ft lbs.

Like I said, this is for the B18b1, I don't know the changes from the a1 to the b1.

And as TheOtherDave said, I would replace the belt and water pump.
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:50 PM
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got the timing belt changed. Wasnt too hard once i had the right tools. I managed to find the timing mark on the crankshaft, and even after extremely close inspection found the marks on the pulley. However the car still wont start. Unfortunately i disconnected the battery after my check engine light was on so the computer codes werent saved. My timing is good, i know im getting fuel, and ive tested all the wires for spark. Now im thinking it must be a sensor. Obviously i dont want to spend money replacing sensors if i dont know which one it is. I dont even know where to start. Im beginning to think i might just swap the engine because i have another that runs. But its currently on a manual trans, (this car is auto) Trust me id love to swap it because i wanted a manual anyway, but ive noticed a couple extra vacuum switches on this car that the manual didnt have...
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