About two weeks ago my timing belt went out.

I was driving on the highway doing about 70, turning around 3k. Car was running great and then all of a sudden the engine died. I pushed in the clutch and tried starting it thinking i was running out of gas, which i was. The light hadn't come on yet but i was getting close. I was about 1/2 a mile away from a gas station.

Coasted the rest of the way until i ran out of momentum. Pulled over to the side of the road and tried to start the car again. Nothing. Got gas, nothing. Finally had it towed back home. I let it sit for about a week before i looked at it. I checked every fuse, relay and connection on the car. Everything was good. Then it finally hit me a few days ago that it might be the timing belt. Went out and took off the head and gave the belt a yank. It came right out.

I cursed life out-loud and walked back in side.

So....What are the odds of my head being toast? I'm very broke right now and will barely be able to buy a new timing belt right now and put it in, much less have my head machined and get new valves.

 

The only way to know for sure is to finish pulling the head.
Valves are clearly more likely to bend than damage the piston crown. If they've collided, the signs will be obvious.

 

How difficult is that to do? I have done work on vehicals before but i try to stay away from engine parts.

 

In broad terms, the order of part removal is as follows:
Intake (you can leave the manifold on, but you'll need to unplug all the sensors, throttle body, fuel supply lines, etc).
Exhaust manifold
Distributor and plug wires (be sure to number them), sparkplugs.
Accessory drive belts (alternator, AC compressor)
Crankshaft pulley
Valve cover
Cambelt covers

If you don't have a decent place to work and the proper tools, you may be better off biting the bullet and hiring a garage to do the work.

Otherwise, purchase a Chilton manual for your model year. They're not the best manuals, but they're much better than winging it altogether. Bear in mind that the crank pulley nut will often be the most difficult to break loose.

 

Personally, I would pull the head and check everything out to avoid wasting more time. There are many parts you should replace while your in there though. Valve guides, valve seals, cam seals, distributor o ring, cam plug, head gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gasket, TB gasket, etc.

If your really in a bind though, you could get everything to tdc, install a new timing belt, water pump, and tensioner. Then either do a compression check or start it up and see how it runs.

Its really hit or miss, the only way to be certain is to pull the head and check.

 

Won't a compression test tell you if the valves are bent?

 

No. It's the worst thing you could do, given that the belt has already failed.

You are just as likely to bend valves while the crankshaft spins on the starter motor because the valvetrain is not in sync.

 

Ah-hah. I guess pulling the head would be best. I did a compression test after I already had set the timing on mine, just for shits and giggles. It turned out my distributor and ecu were bad.

 

I say throw on the belt and see how it runs. Thats your best choice. Especially if yer low on cash.

If you have cams, high compression pistons, or a milled head then maybe i would take the head off to see the valves.

I've had a 91 integra, 89 crx, and a 94 civic. all STOCK. drove those suckers till the timing belts snaped. even tried to crank the engines. NO BENT VALVES. I think bent valves due to a busted timing belt is a thing of the past. Older cars may be at risk to banged up valves.

I believe the valves will clear the pistons no matter what. I think thats the way honda designed the engine. OF COURSE I MAY BE WRONG THOUGH.

 

It has nothing to do with the age of the design. And interference engines aren't a thing of the past. You had exceptional luck with your Integra... because all of the B-series engines are interference design from the factory.

Speaking in general terms, I will never understand why people don't bother to keep up with preventative maintenance when the cost of replacing the timing belt is cheap insurance against a mulched valvetrain.