okay i just installed my clutch and flywheel for the 2nd time now and its still not working, okay first time the flywheel was torqued incorrectly so it had a wobble and made some weird noises never drove it like that. took the whole thing apart and put it on again and put everything to the right torqe settings and pattern, but when i put the clutch and pressure plate on i had the clutch on the alignment tool and had that in place and when i put the pressure plate on it didn't sit flush on its own i had to put the bolts in and torque it down manually to get it to sit flush, well now i start my car finally and the car wont go in any gear and the pedal has so much vibration on it from the cable, so the whole thing on the pressure plate not sitting flush on its own has me worried now, if anyone has any help or needs some more explanation please fell free to ask more about it i really want this fixed, using fidenza flywheel and exedy clutch.

 

sucks.. but probably should pull the tranny off again.. and see if u can get it to align up better... also did u grease the peg from the tranny into the clutch?? i have a hydro tranny soo i dont have to deal with the cable stuff..

 

If you torqued that aluminum flywheel down wrong you probably warped it. That pressure plate is pretty hard to bend but you may have bent that too. You should take it back out and have the flywheel checked. Make sure everything is not bent. Sounds to me like you ruined that flywheel though. Aluminum flywheels sucks. They are prone to warpage. Chromoly is what the factory uses. Spoon has a 9lb chromoly flywheel but it's pretty expensive. You don't wanna go too light anyways cuz you lose way more bottom end than the free-revving is even worth.

 

He's not going to warp an aluminum flywheel from bolting it down wrong. I had an aluminum flywheel for 100k miles, on nitrous, no problems. I know plenty of people who have had no problems. Your comment about losing bottom end and going too light isn't true, as I ran a 7lb and wouldn't have traded it for the world.

As for this problem....you're going to have to take the tranny off again and make sure everything is correct. Make sure everything seats and bolts up properly...if you can't get it, tow it to a shop so they can get it right.

 

Whatever you say buddy. Call and talk to a spoon professional and he'll tell ya all about it. And since when was aluminum stronger than chromoly steel? Have you ever seen a dyno plot comparing flywheels on the same car and engine? Just because you got 40,000 posts on a forum doesn't mean anything to me.

 

He never said aluminum was stronger than chromoly steel. Nor did he say anything about losing power (but you did and still don't have any dyno plots to confirm your claim).

There is nothing in Brett's post that should trigger such a defensive reply, so cool it.

 

Hey I'm just arguing my point. There is a problem with going to light on a flywheel. If you do a google search for too light flywheel or something like that you'll find a hundred websites talking about how it affects drivability in part open throttle or cruising speeds. Yea if it's a wide open throttle race engine or a turbo'd engine that you want to spool up fast, it's not gonna matter, but if it's a daily driver it could be a negative affect. Here's some websites that will explain what im saying. www.dragsport.com/issue/5/tech.shtm, www.racetep.com/flywheel.html, members.aol.com/AJahed/mods.html, and if you lok up the jun chromoly flywheel or the spoon chromoly flywheel it will say that their flywheels are perfect for free revving without losing any bottom end torque! And me saying that aluminum is prone to warpage... well it is. You can google search that too. Aluminum is always prone to warpage when it is overheated and if alot of these guys are slipping their clutch alot when launching they are heating it up tremedously every launch. Thats why alot of websites say to use an organic clutch disc with an aluminum flywheel, because the discs operate at lower temps compared to other race clutches which could get your flywheel too hot. I just figured that if they can warp from heat maybe they could warp from being tightened down crooked. Like if you tighten a skateboard truck on one side and then try to force the other bolts through on the other side and tighten them, it'll crack the baseplate. Or like when you put your aluminum head on and the manual tells you the torque sequence and says it is futile to be torqued down in the right sequence. Don't get me wrong, really lightweight aluminum flywheels are really good for road race cars and wide open throttle cars and turbos. But do you guys all see how much higher you have to rev the car to not stall it when letting the clutch out in first, with a lightened flywheel right? Thats kind of showing you the loss of torque you have in your lower rpm's. It was just a suggestion and this guy attacks me and tells me, pretty much, I'm an idiot....Im not trying to become a part of this forum to argue with people anyways. I was just trying to help a guy out with the information that I collected for myself when I bought my first spoon flywheel. I don't go off of what my friends say and what I read on these forums. I go off of what the research and development departments of these major aftermarket companies say. As for the dyno plots I'm still trying to find them and i'll post a link when I do. I never said you will lose horsepower!!! I said you will lose bottom end or off the line torque or whatever you want to call it. I'm just quoting spoon. Sorry guys!

 

I'm not going to argue that aluminum is stronger or as strong as cro-moly or steel. This should be common knowledge by now. I do, however; have some disagreements about other things you posted. Also, take notice that not once did I attack your personal character, so do not take offense and offer me the same respect.

I would want as much power sent to the wheels as possible on an N/A or stock motor instead of being used to turn a heavier flywheel. I have driven in both stock and boosted Integras with lightweight flywheels and there are more advantages than disadvantages.

Of course they would say that...they stay in business by selling products to customers. They will try to convince the customer with ambiguous and unproven claims to buy their product. A lot of suckers own Hondas, so of course they are going to feed them crap to have them buy their product.

What does aluminum vs cromoly have to do with losing bottom end torque and being "free-revving"? 100 lbs of feathers is the same weight as 100 lbs of bricks.

No, not really. I have no issues whatsoever daily driving a 9lb flywheel. I have not stalled it once since the day I put it in.

You are confusing torque loss with an increased demand for inertia in the flywheel to get the car moving. I guarantee there is absolutely no torque loss with a lighter than stock flywheel. If you don't believe me, keep looking for those dyno graphs.

No, he didn't. He disagreed with some of your points, as I have. You obviously take the internet too seriously.

Horsepower is a function of torque.

I'm still waiting for some valid proof on this alleged torque loss since I hear this crap on the internet all the time and still no dyno graphs anywhere. As far as I am concerned, it is as much of a fallacy as having longer gear ratios is better for boost.

I highly doubt spoon would say that.

 

Getting back on topic....

There is only one way that the pressure plate will line up with the flywheel. If it isn't lined up correctly, it won't sit flush no matter what you do.