ok, lets say i was going to get rid of my b18a1 because of the miles, and get a b18b or c. Then lets say turbo it. cool. How much would i expect to spend on internals for the motor to safely get a 150-200hp turbo on the car? How much have some of you guys spent on turbo aplications, excluding labor if you didnt do it yourself? Im just curious, once in a while i will get offered turbos and intercoolers by friends. But now im in a situation where i can spend some money on the car. So i want to see where this takes me. I already know if i do this, im going to need the kit, the motor, internals and a new clutch. maybe just the motor and kit if i keep the boost low. i dont know.
and also at top end my gears grind, if im racing or something. Should i have the transmission looked at? Maybe its the clutch or something? its fine under normal driving conditions, the transmission is firm when changing gears, not very accurate sometimes. I attribute that to worn shifter bushings maybe? I dont know much about manual transmissions. speaking of transmissions, are there other transmissions that would be a little bit better for racing/hardcore driving? Maybe a gsr transmission? will those hook onto an ls motor? i got a 90 integra ls, mated to the stock b18a1 231k.

 

move to hybrid, ty. when u get ur b18b or c1 or c5 get the complete swap so u get a new tranny. a tranny with 231k WONT go well with a boosted car...also cuz its grinding, but wrong forum mayn

 

your all over the place........seperate your questions out. and also, this isnt the forum for hybrids

 

If you are going to boost the shit out of it (and many will disagree with me on this), but I would go with a c1 motor and eliminate the VTEC with some high lift cams or a stroker kit (bring on the flame). A c5 will have too high of compression and a b1 isn't strong enough to handle the boost without dumping a lot of money into it (enough $$ to buy a c1 stock-boy).

Trans... Well, I have an LS trans on a GSR motor with a GSR clutch because I highway race so I want the higher top speed not so much the low end giddy-up. If you plan on circuit racing, go with the GSR trans with a 4 or 6 pad clutch (stage 3 and stage 2 respectively) so you can git her going after the apex.

Tell you what, my low end acceleration could use help, but I might go with a throttle position sensing setup to fire up a 50 shot at WOT to fix this cuz I like my LS trans too much.

 

1. The compression ratio of the B18C5 is not too high for boost. It's all about fuel and tuning.

2. The LS will hold up to just as much boost as the B18C1. So if you're going to eliminate VTEC, why spend the extra money? Besides. All of the VTEC killer cams are high in lift, but also have long durations. This is bad for boosted vehicles, because the valve overlap is too great, causing the motor to bleed boost.

3. For 200whp, you can run stock internals no problem. I'd recommend ditching the fuel setup that comes with the turbo kits, and getting some bigger injectors and a hondata for tuning.

4. As for clutch, you'll be fine with a full faced ACT clutch. Going with a 4/6 puck clutch on a daily driver isn't so great. The engagement is very harsh, and the pucks like to break off.

5. For the 50 shot you want to run, make sure it doesn't come on before 3500 rpm...or you'll risk grenading your motor.

 

Word dubcac. I didn't think of the valve overlap. As for buying the C1, don't you think the heartier internals would hold up better than the B1's? As for the C5, wouldn't the cylinders detonate too early due to the extreme compression of the O2 in the cylinder?

I'm in no way doubting you dubcac.. I am very open to being corrected, I'm just challenging you for an explanation so I can learn something new Thanks!

Oh, I just thought of this.. I'm new to nitrous.. How would I get the system to account for WOT while preventing engagement prior to 3500RPM? Would a ZEX computer be able to account for this? I was going to include a pressure switch behind the gas pedal to pick up WOT, FYI.

Thanks again.

 

A pressure switch really isn't needed. If you're going with the Zex kit (which I recommend and have used/owned), it uses the throttle position signal to determine WOT. Other kits like NOS and NX are adaptable to a TPS activation as well, but they come with a microswitch that gets mounted on the throttle body...it's actually a physical switch. As for not engaging before 3500 rpm, you could wait to flip the switch, wait to hit full throttle, or install what's called a window switch. You can put different "pills" into the switch to start and stop the nitrous flow at desired RPMs. A good rule of thumb is 3500 rpm start and have it stop a couple hundred RPM before fuel cutoff.

As for the B1 vs. C1, the internals aren't much different in terms of strength. The C1 has stronger rod bolts which stand up to high RPM stress better, but the B1 can easily handle 12+psi on a stock bottom end, correctly tuned of course. Just as an example, my old roommate was running shotpeened OEM LS rods and ARP rod bolts to 9500rpm daily in his LSVTEC. I've known a few people making in excess of 250 whp on a completely stock LS bottom end. The problem with blowing motors generally isn't because people make too much power, it's because they don't have the proper fuel management and tuning, and end up detonating. They fry rings, crack ringlands, etc.

 

Sorry about being all over the place with the questions. Some people who have rode with say the tranny is grinding because I can't drive. This is my second car, first manual. Maybe thats true, but it still has 231k on it. I think I will buy a complete swap. I know this guy running an 92 ls with a "99 b18 motor" . He is using his stock transmission, and has no problems.