I replaced my rear pads about a month ago, which at the time was odd because i had just replaced them less than a year before, but i didn't really think anything of it at the time, but now the rear right on is already worn down. i replaced them this morning and the left one looked fine. now the inside pad on the right side was worn down more then the outside pad and it was worn down a lot more on one half of the pad than the other. so i was thinking that maybe this would imply that one of the caliper pins was sticking and holding it down since it seems that a bad piston would cause the pad to wear down evenly. one of the caliper pins felt a little stiff so i took all four of them out and lubed them up. Also when I was changing the pads on the caliper in question the piston was really hard to screw in but the further in it got the easier it was. So for now i am just going to drive for a couple of days and then i can see how easily the back wheels turn when of the ground, but i doubt ther pins were the problem. I read some of the other posts on brake problems and I was wondering if bleeding or changin the brake fluid would help at all in this situation.
Any brake experts out there got any ideas where i should look for a problem? i don't want to drop the $100+ for a new caliper if that is not even the problem. also is it possible to get a rebuild kit for calipers?

 

It could also be a heavily warped rotor. You generally don't change pads unless you at least machine the rotors as well, or get new ones.

What could be happening is the rear rotor could be heavily warped, so the pad is only wearing on that "warped" part of the rotor, causing the pad to wear abnormally.

It wouldn't hurt to bleed your brakes and put new fluid in the system, but it doesn't sound like a stuck caliper. If you had a stuck caliper you'd be smelling brakes and destroying pads much quicker than within a year or so.

I once put all new pads and rotors on, and one of the calipers was fouled (and stuck) and it annihilated both the pads and the rotor on that side within about 10 miles of driving, smelt horrible and it was obvious that there was a constant-braking problem. You don't seem to have these symptoms.

So check and see if your rotors are warped, perhaps machine them (should be like $20-$25 a rotor to machine) and replace the pads one more time (you don't want to put old worn pads on a newly machined rotor, or visa versa) and see if that helps the problem.

 

Make sure the handbrake releases. I had a caliper where the handbrake lever (on the caliper) was rusting, so that spring didn't have enough force to release the brake.

Another idea is to make sure the pads aren't wedged too tight in the caliper bracket.

 

This ended up being my problem with some Albany pads I got from Autozone. The pads were really hard to get in and they couldn't move freely enough to release from the rotor and one side wore out in less than a year. If this is the case, try a different brand of pads and make sure to lubricate them where they fit into the calipers.

 

I'm betting on the fact that your brake pads are too big for the brake caliper attachment. I had gotten some aftermarket inexpensive brake pads (good mind you, just not OEM for 70$) and what they seemed to have done is machined the pads for OEM size (reverse engineered) and THEN painted over them, increasing the size such that they no longer fit in between the springs. I shaved this down a little bit with a grinder (just enouph to get through the paint) and they slipped in correctly. If the brake pads are hard to put in when you replace them the brake pad may just not be moving on the outside so that when you press the brake it only pushes in the inside brake pad. This might cause an increase in pressure therefore causing the rear inside brake pad to wear more. I'm no expert, but from just intuition and previous knowledge thats what occurs to me. hope it helps!

 

like one you guys said since my rotors not getting cooked the calipers is not completly seized up. so I found a rebuild kit for both rear calipers. I've looked everywhere for some type of honda specific guide for rebuilding rear brakes but have found almost no info on the job. I undestand the concept, but my only concern is that most people I talked to or things I read said that all you gotta do is put some air on the back of the caliper to shoot the piston out. but the rear brakes have that racheting mechanism. Anyone ever tried to rebuild rear brakes, or taken them apart for any reason? Im probably gonna attempt one of the calipers tomorrow. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

 

Compressed air works on the front because there isn't any handbrake ratcheting mechanism up there.

There's a real good section in the Helm repair manual about rebuilding the caliper. I sorta remember needing long, skinny, snapring pliers to get at a snap ring way down in the bottom of the cylinder...

 

yeah all you gotta do for the rear is unscrew the piston, so that probably makes it easier than the front. I think the culprit in my case was the dust boot around the cylinder was a caught up a little in the piston. there was a snap ring down inside of the back of the piston, not really sure what it held in but I didn't mess with any of that. The new seal was a piece of cake to get in , but the boot was a real pain. pretty sure that took care of my problem car seems to roll a lot more easily.