KKTPP

where should i look into purchasing a rev hard or a drag kit?
anyone know any good priced online sites?
or anyone here know good performance shops i can call? im in toronto canada but im sure they can ship it to me..
monday im gonna go to the local shops and ask about those two kits
thanx a bunch!

ps. wtf is creep?

MrFatbooty

The key with getting any turbo kit to run right is the ability to dial in the fuel. You can probably get the parts themselves for under 3 grand, but you're going to have to spend a bit more than that if you want everything that is going to allow you to strap the car on a dyno and dial it in.

Just as an example, I used the "build your own kit" thing on importparts.com and pieced together the following:

- DRAG cast manifold
- DRAG 2.5" downpipe
- DRAG air filter kit
- DRAG piping kit
- Turbonetics T3/TO4E turbo
- Precision "350 hp" intercooler
- TurboXS RFL blow off valve
- Tial 38 mm wastegate
- misc hardware bolts, fittings, etc
- Stainless oil feed & return with fittings
- RC 440 cc/min injectors
- Walbro 255 lph in-tank pump
- Hondata S200B

Total is $3470 plus shipping, and figure on spending some more money on dyno time to have the Hondata tuned in.

You could get under your budget by skipping the Hondata and injectors, and instead running an FMU and MAP sensor bypass, but that's a rather inelegant solution which will be neither as reliable as the same turbo kit tuned with a Hondata nor make as much power as the same turbo kit tuned with a Hondata.

Boost creep

KKTPP

ty very much!

however i got one more question.. im pricing out installation and minor engine rebuild between 3 shops.. some of them are saying i should do this.. then that.. where the other guy sez its not necessary to ie. bore out piston walls and put in bigger pistons... so its either they are fukin with me and want more money? or some know more then others.. grrr

my engine has 200,000km on it.. but it still runs strong.. i did a compression test and everything is perfect

can someone plz name me the major engine mods i HAVE to do in order to run a turbo.. because i know i CAN spend another 3000 on just the engine so it will be MOST reliable... however i dont have to?

thanx

btw for those who will bitch for me to search this shit by myself.. i have.. and i have been to shops.. but like i said.. im getting mixed info which will result in me spending either another 3000 or not.. :/

MrFatbooty

I'd say it's a pretty safe bet that machine shops will try and sell you an engine build.

Resleeving the motor, boring it out, running full forged internals, etc, can be necessary depending on how much power you're trying to make.

So, that said, how much power are you trying to make?

KKTPP

well i want to run mid to high 13's...
i was told if i have about 200-220whp i should be good

newgsrdriver

You should realize your goals with either the Drag/RH kit, a testpipe/HF cat and 60mm+ exhaust and decent driving on a completely stock healthy motor.

MrFatbooty

Yeah, as long as your motor checks out good on a compression/leakdown test and any and all maintenance items have been taken care of, bolting on a turbo should be relatively non-threatening to its life.

You'll also probably want to upgrade to a stronger clutch, and this would probably be a decent point to make sure that your tires, suspension and brakes are up to snuff.

AXiS

What is it with you people wanting T3/T4 setups to run 7 PSI on a 1.8 motor? It's a complete waste of a turbo. The main reason to upgrade to a larger turbo is to run high boost more efficiently. If you are only going to be running like 7-10 PSI then I'd suggest going custom and using a T-25 turbo. They are small so they spool up very fast, and they would put out more than enough air for a honda motor. A 60 trim turbo would be laggy as hell, especially on a torque limited b18 motor. Before deciding on a turbo take a look at it's compressor map to see at what PSI it's peak efficiency range is. I'm running a ported 14b (the stock turbo from a 1G manual eclipse / talon) on my '97 GS-T and with the usual supporting mods I'm putting down somewhere around 270 at the crank @ 17 PSI. This is with a 7.8:1 compression ratio. I know it sounds cool to say "I've got a 60 trim T3/T4 blah blah watch me run 13s." Unless you are going to put some major work into your bottom end to reinforce it and lower the compression ratio so you can run some real boost, stick with a smaller turbo. If I got a T3/T4 60 trim turbo and stuck it on my car I'd shoot to run at least 25 PSI on pump gas because that's what getting a bigger turbo is all about - running more boost.

MrFatbooty

The simple answer: that's what comes in the more common turbo kits out there.

However there is a bit more of a logical reason. If you plug in some numbers into a turbo calculator, an LS motor running 7 psi of boost (i.e. pressure ratio of 1.5) at redline will flow about 21 air-lbs per min. Take a gander at this compressor map if you will, and see where those numbers put you.



Indeed, it will put you smack dab in the middle, which if you squint is 78% compressor efficiency. That's a mighty fine number to be at.

MrFatbooty

Almost forgot to add:

The reason the typical Honda setups are T3/T4 instead of a full T4 is precisely because they involve relatively low boost and non-stratospheric horsepower numbers. It gives reasonable spool-up and transient response while still maximizing compressor efficiency.

I mean, if you really wanted you could run something like a Garrett GT28R but that would be rather pricey just to bolt on to an LS motor.