Wich Motor Oil is best to use
I'm new to this forum but not a newb as far as cars go but I do want yalls opinion. I have a 96 Integra SE with the LS motor running a JRSC (8psi), Crower cams, JE Pistons, Eagle Rods what would be the best grade oil to run under this setup I have heard Synthetic is the way to go but others have said it will mess up your SC so what do yall think? Thanks ahead of time.
It's like religion... everyone has their own preference. Some people swear by dino-oils. I prefer synthetic.
All I've used for the last 10 years (in any of my cars) is Mobil 1. It's the most recomended sythetic out there. Take a look at all of the high-performance factory cars out there, and most will have Mobil 1 as a "factory fill". BMW, AMG, Chevrolet, Ford, etc use it.
I tend to change the oil every 6500 - 7000 miles (Royal Purple and Amsoil say you can go to 15K with theirs). I use a high quality filter (Wix). Avoid Fram like a bad case of herpes.
There are study after study about this. But the big things that keep coming up: higher detergent level (vs. Dino oils), better "shear resistance" (mocules being sheared during engine operation), and a synthetic base (vs. crude oil).
If your engine leaks oil after going to synthetic, it's only because they were there to begin with. All that the synthetic did was remove the crud blocking the leak closed.
My $.02
- P Roth
'92 GS
All I've used for the last 10 years (in any of my cars) is Mobil 1. It's the most recomended sythetic out there. Take a look at all of the high-performance factory cars out there, and most will have Mobil 1 as a "factory fill". BMW, AMG, Chevrolet, Ford, etc use it.
I tend to change the oil every 6500 - 7000 miles (Royal Purple and Amsoil say you can go to 15K with theirs). I use a high quality filter (Wix). Avoid Fram like a bad case of herpes.
There are study after study about this. But the big things that keep coming up: higher detergent level (vs. Dino oils), better "shear resistance" (mocules being sheared during engine operation), and a synthetic base (vs. crude oil).
If your engine leaks oil after going to synthetic, it's only because they were there to begin with. All that the synthetic did was remove the crud blocking the leak closed.
My $.02
- P Roth
'92 GS
Why do I avoid Fram? They're junk. They're made out of a horrible paper element, with a poorly designed bypass valve.
But don't take my word for it. Here are two articles about oil filters:
http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
And the summary for the above articles:
http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters.html
Remember: You get what you pay for.
-P Roth
'92 GS
But don't take my word for it. Here are two articles about oil filters:
http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
And the summary for the above articles:
http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters.html
Remember: You get what you pay for.
-P Roth
'92 GS
All Oil is the same as long as the API and SAE are the same
that only pertains to non synthetic motor oils......
with synthetic....i find that castol syntec is great
i change my oil in my prelude every 3-4 k miles
as for filter....i use wix too
fram...stay away.....
that only pertains to non synthetic motor oils......
with synthetic....i find that castol syntec is great
i change my oil in my prelude every 3-4 k miles
as for filter....i use wix too
fram...stay away.....


