testing for leaks in ac system..
is it ok to submerge ac system components in water an using compressed air fill the component and look for air bubbles (indicating the leaks)? or is there a flaw in this method?
the system is already been empty for a few years and i removed the evaporator yesterday to see if i could find any trace of leak indicating dye (added about a year ago) - couldnt find any there nor any where else yet (via the dye).
like lookin for a hole in your tire basicly using soapy water...
the compressor belt has been off for a few months now as well.
the system is already been empty for a few years and i removed the evaporator yesterday to see if i could find any trace of leak indicating dye (added about a year ago) - couldnt find any there nor any where else yet (via the dye).
like lookin for a hole in your tire basicly using soapy water...
the compressor belt has been off for a few months now as well.
traditionally, automotive ac systems are tested for leaks by using a vacuum pump.
they evacuate all the air and wait a half hour to hour to see if the vacuum 'holds'.
this does 2 things:
1. shows whether or not the system leaks
2. evacuates the air (which is a very poor coolant) that needs to be removed before 'charging' for the ac system to work effeciently.
if you test the components for leaks separatly, you will miss the places where the leaks are most likely to occur - in the couplings
they evacuate all the air and wait a half hour to hour to see if the vacuum 'holds'.
this does 2 things:
1. shows whether or not the system leaks
2. evacuates the air (which is a very poor coolant) that needs to be removed before 'charging' for the ac system to work effeciently.
if you test the components for leaks separatly, you will miss the places where the leaks are most likely to occur - in the couplings
Last edited by d-mon; Jul 30, 2008 at 01:56 PM.
well when the ac went out about 5 years ago, there was a visual fog and aerosol smell that came out the vents.
i talked with my mechanic uncle and he recomended i just change out the evap anyway to be safe (no sence and having to possibly redo this repair).
i ordered a new evap off da net, with shippin about $84. i got a new compressor that has already arrived, a new dryer of course, a new OEM honda expansion valve, and new orings.
Yesterday i removed all the components - all the lines, old compressor, etc.
i cleaned the lines with ac cleaner and my new air compressor.
after i get my new evap, i will reassemble, changing out ALL the o-rings and then i will be taking it to a shop to have it evacuated and recharged etc.
hopefully i willbe rockin the AC soon. Texas heat sucks big time, especially wit a black civic. My windows up until earlier this year had both been in-operatable for a few years also< that was hell. My chassis to door wiring had broken + my driver door window regulator went way bad due to not having known about silicone lubricant in the rubber guides (before the wiring issue) which i recomend to anyone with a window that always jumps out of the guides.
i talked with my mechanic uncle and he recomended i just change out the evap anyway to be safe (no sence and having to possibly redo this repair).
i ordered a new evap off da net, with shippin about $84. i got a new compressor that has already arrived, a new dryer of course, a new OEM honda expansion valve, and new orings.
Yesterday i removed all the components - all the lines, old compressor, etc.
i cleaned the lines with ac cleaner and my new air compressor.
after i get my new evap, i will reassemble, changing out ALL the o-rings and then i will be taking it to a shop to have it evacuated and recharged etc.
hopefully i willbe rockin the AC soon. Texas heat sucks big time, especially wit a black civic. My windows up until earlier this year had both been in-operatable for a few years also< that was hell. My chassis to door wiring had broken + my driver door window regulator went way bad due to not having known about silicone lubricant in the rubber guides (before the wiring issue) which i recomend to anyone with a window that always jumps out of the guides.
traditionally, automotive ac systems are tested for leaks by using a vacuum pump.
they evacuate all the air and wait a half hour to hour to see if the vacuum 'holds'.
this does 2 things:
1. shows whether or not the system leaks
2. evacuates the air (which is a very poor coolant) that needs to be removed before 'charging' for the ac system to work effeciently.
if you test the components for leaks separatly, you will miss the places where the leaks are most likely to occur - in the couplings
they evacuate all the air and wait a half hour to hour to see if the vacuum 'holds'.
this does 2 things:
1. shows whether or not the system leaks
2. evacuates the air (which is a very poor coolant) that needs to be removed before 'charging' for the ac system to work effeciently.
if you test the components for leaks separatly, you will miss the places where the leaks are most likely to occur - in the couplings


