Ive just fitted a b18c6 (ITR engine) to my eg6, the engine has been stood for like a year or more.

I also fitted a skunk2 intake mani and skunk2 thottle body at the same time as fitting the engine.

The engine is meant to be a fairly low miles engine, is it likely the valve seals are perished?

When i remove the exhaust manifold, each port is wet and oiled

 

check your pcv lines they could be crossed which can cause the oil to be sucked into the manifold and down into your pistons. if this is the case then you are going to have to run the car around town for a while to clear any oil that could be trapped in the cylinders down near the rings. i had my lines crossed and i spent a good part of a week trying to figure out what it was, and then spent most of yesterday clearing it out. most of it is out i'm still getting a little blue smoke, but i also stopped because we got T-storms and i just want to check the oil levels to make sure my oil wasn't leaking into the cylinders. so far so good!!

 

Well my lines are as follows..

The idle control valve line goes to the intake mani (right by were it bolts on to the head)

The line from the middle of the intake manifold goes through the intake mani, and down to the black canister thing on the back of the block (pcv is it?)

That sound right?

 

As you can see in this pic

 

Any one?

 

My mates in Leciester who own a 11 second, soon to be 10 possibly 9 second EG may be able to help you.

 

So far all, the plumbing sounds correct.
However, that hose in the middle of the intake manifold isnt the PCV hose.
It's for the evaporative emissions system.

The PCV - or positive crankcase ventilation - fitting is cast into the cylinder head cover (just above the D in DOHC when looking at the engine from the exhaust side).

The PCV hose needs a check valve oriented so that intake vacuum will draw the oil-laden air out of the top of the cylinder head and into the intake ducting. On the OEM intake, there is a fitting for the PCV hose a few centimeters before the clamp end that fits the throttle body.

If the check valve isn't oriented correctly, pressure will build up and drive oil past the valve seals with continued high rpm use. The classic indicator of failed valve seals is a large plume of blue-grey smoke on startup, especially after the car has sat for a few hours.

But since the engine has been sitting for nearly a year, I would suspect the spark plug tube seals first. I recently had to replace mine when I noticed my fuel economy plummeting and a lot of soot collecting on the exhaust.

Turns out that oil had crept out from under the valve cover at the base of the plug and had begun to foul the electrodes ond cylinders 2 & 4.

Apologies for the novel; hopefully some of this will be of use. h:

 

Thanks for that info, i changed the plug seals when i put the engine in.
ill check the pcv lines today

 

the pcv valve in the intake mani was damaged, so i have just blanked the pcv off for the time being and its sorted.
Is it best to have the pcv functional? As ive heard some people blank them off on turbo builds etc?

 

For the sake of emissions, it ought to be plumbed back to the intake. Failing that, use a breather filter to keep atmospheric dust from getting in there.

I'm not sure how critical they are for your MoT inspections; if you tried to sneak a disconnected PCV hose through a California smog test, you'd be drawn & quartered. h: