I finally got my hands on these, not a perfect system, but OKay for me I think.

Power Acoustik PADVD 140 Indash DVD Player

Panasonic CQ-VA707W In Dash 7" Wide Color LCD

Infinity 63.5i 3 Way 6.5"

Infinity 639.5i 3 way 6x9"

Power Acoustik Sapphire SP4X-600
- 70x4W @ 4Ohm
- 85x4W @2Ohm
- 170x2W Mono RMS
- 600W Bridged Max
- Frequency Response 20Hz - 30kHz
- THD 0.02%
- S/N Ratio 97dB
- Edge Lit Cool Blue Neon with Diamond Cut Plexi
- Exotic Black Chrome
- Plexi-View Top Panel
- Full Mosfet Power Supply
- PWM Circuitry
- Full Selectable Crossover Hi/Full/Low
- Variable Low Pass 40 Hz- 120Hz
- Variable Hi Pass 150Hz- 1.5Khz
- Bass Boost @ 40Hz. & Variable 0-18 dB
- Three Way Protection Circuit
- System Distress Indicator
- High/Low Level inputs With Floating Ground
- 4 Gauge Power/Ground Connection
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Power Acoustik Sapphire SP2X-1600 2 Channel Amplifier
- 310x2W @ 4Ohm
- 370x2W @2Ohm
- 740W Mono RMS
- 1600W Bridged Max
- Frequency Response 20Hz - 30kHz
- THD 0.02%
- S/N Ratio 97dB
- Edge Lit Cool Blue Neon with Diamond Cut Plexi
- Exotic Black Chrome
- Plexi-View Top Panel
- Full Mosfet Power Supply
- PWM Circuitry
- Full Selectable Crossover Hi/Full/Low
- Variable Low Pass 40 Hz- 120Hz
- Variable Hi Pass 150Hz- 1.5Khz
- Bass Boost @ 40Hz. & Variable 0-18 dB
- Three Way Protection Circuit
- System Distress Indicator
- High/Low Level inputs With Floating Ground
- 4 Gauge Power/Ground Connection

with

Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 D Subs - 2 Subs

What kit should best use to maximize the system's quality??

I think I need two 4 gauge kits for the amps, what can I use for the Speakers and Subs?? as well as for the DVD Unit???

it's an OKay system right?? Do I need Dynamat??
I have a 95 accord EX

 

if you want to buy stuff go to www.darvew.com
go to ebay and search dor the seller darvex.com or bag-boy
then bid on what u need than add the prices and email the dude... cheap as fawk and awesome seller

 

That's a good setup :thumbup: . I just don't like Power Acoustik amps. I installed the exact same amp as urs with 2 12" JL W3 and it just sucks! :down: . Thank goodness I only got it for a bill.

In terms of a kit, don't settle for anything but the best. Especially when you're gonna be running all that equipement. I have never used anything but Monster Cable ever since I started to notice that those no name brands just doesn't give a better quality sound than Monster. I can't call myself a professional because I haven't tried all the brands out there. I use only brands that I think are the best, but there might be other brands that can compare to Monsters.

Moderators what brand's the best? Bass mechanic wut u think?


BTW...you're most likely to run into engine whine. So please plan ahead before hooking everything up. I HATE ENGINE WHINE!

 

thank guys, Engine Whine??? you mean that the system will draw a lot from the car's, so I need a Cap??? 1F??

 

i'm not a moderator but i must say this: to me. its not what brand you buy but more importantly what kind you buy.

check the amount of layers of shielding and if it is or is not twisted wiring (which cancels alot of noise)

 

Woohoo...I'm a mod, I get to answer this one:

I hate to say it, but in car audio, for the most part...wire is wire.

There are some subtle differences, but when shopping for wire I would look at the following:

RCA:
Find a good solid connector on the end...gold plated. Metal barrel. Some type of strain relief is good as well. Make sure it's a twisted pair. This does help in the noise reduction qualities of the wire. Again, most of these companies are putting out the same damn things with different pretty colors on them, and jack the prices way, way up....again, this is just my personal experience. Some people say that they can hear the difference between cables....if you can it's certainly up to you. I've used Stinger, PG, RF, LA and a few other cables in the past, and I've never felt that any provided sub standard performance

Speaker wire:
This is another bone of contention...again with the noise floor that exists in car audio, I don't think that you will find any real differences. The RF/IXOS Gamma wire was a design that is commonly employed in home audio DIY cables. You can make some extremely high end speaker cable out of Cat5 cables if you really want to try it. Thesecables are heralded by a bunch of wire gurus....check out the wire section at www.audioasylum.com Personally I think some of it's smoke and mirrors. If you system doesn't have the resolution to distinguish between two types of cables, then do you need the expensive stuff? Probably not. Just make sure it's properly sized. I HATED the PG ZeroPoint wire...sure it looks cool, but it's a pain to strip and worse to run in a car, it's very thick...between 4 and 8 ga.

Power wire:
Again mostly cosmetics. This is the most important cable you will run...make sure you do it carefully and safely!! FUSE it people....no more the 18" from the battery. Protect from all sharp and moving objects....it can burn your car down...so can a remote wire, so disconnect the battery and pull all fuses before moving equipment...why do I stress this...because I almost burnt a car down from not doing it....learn from my mistakes!!

Make sure you get these things sized correctly. A 4 ga wire at a run of aruond 12 - 15 feet long is good for around 100A if memory serves me correctly. It may be a bit more, a bit less. I'll try to post a few tables later. It may cost more to upgrade, but skimping here will cost you down the line.

Again, there are lots of pretty colors out there to choose from. You won't find any performance benefit from using platinum plating, square wires, etc. The only think you should look for is strand count...the higher the more flexible, the better. Also, make sure the line you choose has what you need....Stinger is probably the most comprehensive lineup out there...they have EVERYTHING...I like this brand...lots.

The BEST wire out there.....without looking at money that is specifically made for car audio...I'd say in the power delivery realm, you are looking at XIOS. Thier GTI line is extrememly versatile and configurable. The inputs and outputs on their fuse blocks are modules, so it can change and expand with your system. They offer that cool new square wire, and they also use Mini ATC fuses that are configurable to give you fusing on a single line from anywhere between around 3 and 560A!!! Talk about designed for you. It's really an excellent line...but you pay for it..retail on the GTI 0ga kit is around $700..no that is not a typo.

The best signal cable out there...probably Kimber...again we are talking 10000 for a few feet of wire...high end stuff. Personally I don't think that it's nearly worth the money for this kind of gear.

What will I be using....I hand build my cables for home and car audio use now. I use mic cable and some generic RCA/XLR connectors for interconnects

For power, I really like Stinger...even their basic proseries stuff is nice. PG made a really nice piece that controls not only power distribution but also your amp remotes for a ton of different pieces of equipment...check it out at www.phoenixgold.com Pretty slick gear - but expensive.

Darvex.com does have good pricing, but I have found that Knukonceptz.com has the best bang for the buck out there...I hope you like blue though...that's all they come in. I have not used this wire personally, but I have heard enough testimonials....it's worth the money.

Will you need sounddeadening.....
Personally, I think that sounddeadening is an integral part of ANY installation. At the least, do your doors...you'd be surprised how nice it is to hear your doors close with a thud rather then your uual "ting" Make the car feel stronger. This can always be done after the fact, but it's a PITA

I think that covers most of it.....the above is just based on my experiences.

 

Like curley said, dont base it on brands... yeah, some do have higher strand counts with small gauge build-up... which helps... but dont buy Monster Cable just because its Monster Cable...

I too, like stinger... its all Ive used, mostly because I can get good prices on it and its very satisfactory for most car stereo instalations.

You'll only get engine wine if the system is wired incorrectly... take the time to seperate the signal and power wires, I run them down different sides of the car and keep them apart when I can at the amp. Also, a good ground helps... be sure to keep ground leads as short as possible, ground everything (amps, cap...etc) to the same point (yes, this makes a difference), use the same or larger gauge as the power wire and make sure you ground close to the frame of the car if not to the frame.

I have also built custom cables, purchased the parts from www.parts-express.com, which work very well as well... microphone cable is usually built to take a beating, so its good for the car environment.

You dont NEED sound deadening... its a matter of choice... but it WILL improve your sound... matting the tunk, rear deck and door panels is all I do, and it makes a world of difference. The floor of the car can also be done, but its a lot of work to take the carpet out... besides, there is some sound deadening there from the factory... which tends to be enough.


Power Acoustik is a decent brand... they are a little overlooked... they may lack the overall quality of a more expensive brand (usually you get what you pay for) but they do sound decent and are a good alternative... so is Profile Clarus.

The Kappa Perfect subs need a ton of power... they are very hard to move with low power. You may want to think about just a single sub (trust me, they are LOUD) or, if you can, add a second sub amp to the setup, using one per sub. Underpowering a sub can do just as much damage as overpowering... its better to have more power and turn the levels down a little, than to have low power and have to crank everything to try to get some decent sound.

 

thanks again guys, I learned quite a lot considering wiring and stuff.

I don't have a CAP for now, Do I need that to Power my system, and Will my SP2X-1600 handle my SUbs ok?

so I've heard that some of you made your own speaker cable? Is that hard to do and cheaper and better??

and If I choose not to make my own Speaker cable, STINGER is the brand to go sice y'all said that they're decent right?

also, how many gauges should be used for the Speaker cable???

 

Running that much power, a cap is a really good idea, especially in a 4 cylinder, foreign car. The alternator in your car, although it does have some reserve, isnt really made for that kind of current draw, and you'll definatly have problems with the lights dimming and all. Also, make sure your alternator is up to snuff... Autozone usually will test them for free, if its an older alternator, its a good idea to have it checked. All that current draw can kill it.

as I said before, you may want to invest into another sub amp, or drop one of the subs... the infinitys need a lot of power to do their job efficently. The amp will be fine, you will just seriously shorten the life of the subs by under powering them.

RCA cables are not hard to make... just a matter of soldering the RCA connectors on the ends pretty much. The only down-fall is that they are not "siameesed" in pairs... so you'll have a bunch of single cables to hide. Plus, microphone cable is rather large in diameter compared to interconnects made for the car.

Speaker cables are just a matter of stripping the ends.. or if you get the twisted pair cables, there is usually a "cap" that goes at the end to make for a neater install. You can use connectors on the ends too, such as bananna plugs, spades...etc, but to me its not worth the money, unless you want everything to look its best.

I personally say stinger because they make EVERYTHING you need or could want... and I can get good prices, but their prices are pretty reasonable to begin with.

 

so you said that sub will shorten the life of the subs?