Passenger window won't roll down. Might have posted this awhile back, can't remember if it was here, I apologize, but more info this time.


Driver and pass switch don't work for pass window.

I disconnected the switch b/c the window tries to move up on its own (even though it is all the way up).

Tried swapping a new switch in, same problem.

Everything else works on the pass side - speakers, power door locks.

I don't think it is the regulator b/c the window is not stuck in the usual down position, and the fact that it tries to go up and down on its own.

Motor maybe? Short - but where - everything else works...

To top it off, can't get the window down to take it out anyway, I'm kinda stuck here, dont really want to spend $400-500 at the dealer and would love to have 2 working windows again.

thanks

 

Take off the door panel, unplug the motor and probe the chassis side with a meter. If the meter show some activity, then start working your way back up to find what's causing it. If you live where there's any oxidation problems, look towards the plug at the door hinge. The pins and wires can get all sorts of crap in there and cause electrical problems.

 

My driver's window goes up and down on its own and doesn't always open. Right before my warranty expired a few months ago Honda replace both motors. I was excited that the passenger window now has auto-up too. Hopefully they wont charge me for fixing it otherwise I'll have to try the same. At that point I will have to ask the procedure for taking the door off.

 

thanks yall

guess i'll check it out again when I get the chance, need to pick up something to test the voltage. will let you know if I find/when I find the problem.

by the way, auto-up thats funny nycnftm. if you take it back and they find the problem let me know thanks!

 

41,000 miles. Honda said it was the regulator and the some wire that connects the whole thing together. They are picking up the whole bill and they paid for my rental, a 2008 F150 super crew with only 208 miles!

 

Oh, you must have the cable type regulator then. Honda OEM is pretty expensive (over $100 I think), but Ebay has some new aftermarket ones for about $40 shipped. Just some info in case it happens to someone else.

I just had to do this to my 96 Accord. I found one in the junk yard for $12, lucky, it was the only Accord they had and the regulator looked new.

 

Well they replaced the motor and the wire and it still doesn't work. Back in a rental car (Mazda 3). This time they said it was the switch and will have to order it. They told me it cost $155 but will do it for nothing. I'll post the part number if I ever get it back and it works 100%.

 

Yeah, keep me posted. Good luck with the fix. I already tried a new switch with mine, no go.

At least you get to test drive some nice rides...I remember when I had a little incident with a tree (not my fault, fell during storm) my insurance company hooked me up with a brand new 1500 chevy silverado, v8, ext cab 40 miles!!

 

If not the motor or switch, it could be the wiring at the door hinge. On my car, the plug was very corroded and the little pins broke inside. I just added some wires and spliced them together.

You can test the window motor by applying voltage from a battery. Just swap the wires around to make it go up or down.

I also took a switch apart once and repositioned the little brass rockers that makes contact, that worked also.

Has any testing been done with a meter?

 

I got all wiring and motor in the door but they still have not fixed the original problem. Looks like I'll have to live with it and occasionally have to open the door at the drive-through window.