Any way to get CEL back on?
I was heading off to work the other day, had the cd player on...crusin down the road. Stop to make a left hand turn, after I get about 20ft on that road I step on the gas expecting to go faster and the car just starts to go alot slower
. Turned down the radio and saw the CEL was on. So I stopped the car, quickly just shut it off since it ran totally like poo. Started it back up and just drove to the nearest house to use the phone (verizon in my area sucks terribly no service at all). Called my house and they were comming. Now my car is obd2 with a obd1 ecu. Stupid ass me didnt have the stuff to get to the connector to jump it and look at the code. So i just unplugged the battery and stuck it back on to reset the ECU. After that it ran perfect. Im guessing it just went into limp mode becasue my top speed was literally like 10mph it would not go past like 2k rpm.
After I got home i tried to see if I could get the CEL back on and jumping it to find the code and no Luck. This is a fresh b18b swap with just about 900 miles on it total. I drove it about 50 miles last night trying to see if the CEL would go back on and it didnt. I Have no idea at all why it came on, just popped up for no reason. Is there anyway to find out at all? Like I know with our snap-on modis scanner at work you can check the history codes, but my car is 0bd2 with obd1 so that dosent help.
. Turned down the radio and saw the CEL was on. So I stopped the car, quickly just shut it off since it ran totally like poo. Started it back up and just drove to the nearest house to use the phone (verizon in my area sucks terribly no service at all). Called my house and they were comming. Now my car is obd2 with a obd1 ecu. Stupid ass me didnt have the stuff to get to the connector to jump it and look at the code. So i just unplugged the battery and stuck it back on to reset the ECU. After that it ran perfect. Im guessing it just went into limp mode becasue my top speed was literally like 10mph it would not go past like 2k rpm.After I got home i tried to see if I could get the CEL back on and jumping it to find the code and no Luck. This is a fresh b18b swap with just about 900 miles on it total. I drove it about 50 miles last night trying to see if the CEL would go back on and it didnt. I Have no idea at all why it came on, just popped up for no reason. Is there anyway to find out at all? Like I know with our snap-on modis scanner at work you can check the history codes, but my car is 0bd2 with obd1 so that dosent help.
Nope...just wait for it to come on again.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
Got it on again last night. It came on on the way to a buddies house, and again totally ran like a POS for about 50ft. Trying to reset the ECU did nothing, and the light would come on after about 2 min of driving. Got to his house and its a code 8---TDC sensor---. So I parked it for the night and drove home this morning and of course no cel again.
The TDC sensor is in the dizzy correct? So i pretty much need a new dizzy?
The TDC sensor is in the dizzy correct? So i pretty much need a new dizzy?
Possibly. If your timing was off enough, it might throw the same code. If the car isn't running rough, I'd swap in a known good dizzy.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
no, my timing is spot on at 16 BTDC.
The car has always had this "miss" at idle and certian RPM. I posted a vid on here, or possibly honda-tech that people said it is either normal, bad coil, or ignitor going. Well after replacing a bunch of stuff from the ecu, full tune-up, testing coil the only thing i didnt replace yet is the dizzy. It only really is heard at like idle, and below a certian rpm driving. It has no effect on power or nothing, just sounds like the exhaust is farting and does not increase with RPM.
The cel is weird, the first time i mentioned I unplugged the battery and it went away. I drove about 75 miles before it came on again yesterday. Yesterday I would do the same thing again and it would come on, go off for about 30 seconds then come back on. Today after being parked all night i drove home with no cel coming on at all.
Should I chance getting a new dizzy? Re-man ones are $286, new ones are $462 from autozone, and a used one from a junkyard is $150. This is my only car so i need this fixed asap.
The car has always had this "miss" at idle and certian RPM. I posted a vid on here, or possibly honda-tech that people said it is either normal, bad coil, or ignitor going. Well after replacing a bunch of stuff from the ecu, full tune-up, testing coil the only thing i didnt replace yet is the dizzy. It only really is heard at like idle, and below a certian rpm driving. It has no effect on power or nothing, just sounds like the exhaust is farting and does not increase with RPM.
The cel is weird, the first time i mentioned I unplugged the battery and it went away. I drove about 75 miles before it came on again yesterday. Yesterday I would do the same thing again and it would come on, go off for about 30 seconds then come back on. Today after being parked all night i drove home with no cel coming on at all.
Should I chance getting a new dizzy? Re-man ones are $286, new ones are $462 from autozone, and a used one from a junkyard is $150. This is my only car so i need this fixed asap.
I meant the cam timing, not ignition timing...which could cause your "miss." If you don't feel anything weird while driving, your timing is probably ok. If you have a friend with a GSR, swap distributors real quick and see what happens.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
My motor is a jdm b18b ls motor.
Nope no friends at all with integras up here, only access to d series parts, or risk buying a dizzy that i cant return. Also I have no side t-belt cover on my motor (the top part). My cams line up perfectly at TDC with the crank.
Nope no friends at all with integras up here, only access to d series parts, or risk buying a dizzy that i cant return. Also I have no side t-belt cover on my motor (the top part). My cams line up perfectly at TDC with the crank.
You probably need a new dizzy. I have an extra one if you want to work out a deal.
__________________
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget


