Adding hp my removing IAT Sensor
I was reading an article and it said
"inside the intake plenum that is very often heated heavily by
coolant and the cylinder head. This is fine of course, since
the original equipment manufacturer designed it to work this
way. However, there is a way to "trick" the engine computer
into thinking that the incoming air is a little cooler than it
really is, and therefore get the ECU to advance the timing a
small amount and increase fuel supply at the same time.
In most mildly modified vehicles, this will create a more
desirable fuel and ignition map and create a few extra
horsepower.
In order to perform this mod, simply locate the sensor and
remove it from the intake manifold. Fill in the hole with JB
weld and proceed to remount the sensor somewhere in the intake
arm. Seal everything up well, and you're done"
Is this true? has anyone done it?
"inside the intake plenum that is very often heated heavily by
coolant and the cylinder head. This is fine of course, since
the original equipment manufacturer designed it to work this
way. However, there is a way to "trick" the engine computer
into thinking that the incoming air is a little cooler than it
really is, and therefore get the ECU to advance the timing a
small amount and increase fuel supply at the same time.
In most mildly modified vehicles, this will create a more
desirable fuel and ignition map and create a few extra
horsepower.
In order to perform this mod, simply locate the sensor and
remove it from the intake manifold. Fill in the hole with JB
weld and proceed to remount the sensor somewhere in the intake
arm. Seal everything up well, and you're done"
Is this true? has anyone done it?
All it will do is screw up your car. It's worthless.
__________________
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
If the IAT is in a location where it is picking up heat other than the actual intake temperature, it would be an advantage to relocate it to a place where an accurate temperature reading would occur. Never remove it completely. Various companies sell a resistor that tricks the computer to thinking that the temperature is different. That is a bad idea.
As a related topic, I was throwing a CEL code for my IAT sensor. I got another one from someone here on HAN but I am still throwing a code for the IAT, even after resetting the ECU. MY car isn't in limp mode, but I think that's because its a reprogrammed P28...Any ideas? BTW, is probably contributing to my car running so rich...
It's possible that the new IAT sensor is bad...it's possible the wiring is bad...it's possible the chip/ecu is bad.
__________________
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget


