I would like to purchase a nitrous system in less than 2 weeks but have no clue as to which setup would be the best. I have a SOHC VTEC w/ headwork. I have port and polish and a cam. My compression ratio is about the same. I have an aftermarket Clutchmasters Clutch. Which setup is the best? What other aftermarket fuel system, ignition system, plugs are needed? I only want at most a 100 shot of NOS. I am planning a b-series swap in early December. I know I would be able to transplant the NOS system to my next motor so I am not worried about that aspect. Any suggestions on nitrous companies would be appreciated. I am not planning on using the system everyday but I also don't want to do any harm to my motor because I will be selling it after the swap. I also do not want to do any serious drilling to my motor. Thanks

 

Ok if you want a 75 shot or less, get a Zex kit. Easy to install, easy to use, and a great kit. Zex is a dry kit, much safer than a single fogger wet kit, where the fogger nozzle is tapped into the air intake/tb. I personally don't like the idea of fuel going through the air intake, you don't want it to stick to the walls. Also the fuel can ignite, causing an intake backfire...not good. Now if you want a 100 shot, you need a NOS direct port kit, which each intake runner has its own fogger nozzle. This helps in evenly distributing nitrous to all cylinders on bigger shots. Also for a 100 shot you'll need aftermarket ignition, and a higher flow fuel pump to compensate for the added power, and I would throw on an adjustable FPR as well. You'll need at least one step colder plugs, and don't use anything but NGK coppers for nitrous use. All nitrous kits are universal for honda/acura.

 

I have no input on the nitrous aspect, but i was just wondering how fast does you car run. I would say i have comperable mods (cam, clutch, intake, etc.)but no P&P, just wondering what kind of improvements the headwork did. I was thinking of buying a d16z6 head and doing some work to it to boost compression and such. Thanks

 

Just doing headwork won't really affect the compression much, even a milled head won't raise it too significantly. You could always have the combustion chambers welded to be smaller, and that will raise compression, but is very expensive to have done.

 

I was just going to say that about my headwork. The compression is minimally raised if any. My car runs noticably better on the quarter mile because that is how it is tuned. You can get internals all day but if they are not tuned then all the expensive parts aren't working in sink. My setup is built basically for quick quarter mile runs. As for the highway or top end, my car is still topping off at around 120-128. Decide whether you want to be top end killer or quarter mile screamer. It's all up to you. Just make sure you ask a lot of questions, get the right parts for how mild or wild you wanna be or run, and get the car tuned by a reputable shop. Pay the money and put it on the dyno. You'll be glad that you did.

 

What about retarding the timing? I heard that the timing should be retarded for safe nitrous use. I am looking into the 75 shot by ZEX like you recommended. So all I am going to need other than the kit is one step colder plugs?? I thought there was more to it than that. I heard it is also not good to spray under 3,000 RPM. I want to be 100% safe and fast as hell when I use nitrous. So I do not need an upgraded ignition system, upgraded fuel pump, or FPR for the 75 shot. Could I just use an aftermarket FPR by like B&M just to be on the safe side for fuel delivery or would it not make a difference?? Your reply would be appreciated.

 

Yeah a b&m FPR isn't a bad idea to bump up fuel pressure a tad just to be on the safe side. You are correct, I left out the ignition retard point :doh: Zex will give you a tuning sheet to start off with, however I think their timing specs are too conservative. They say you need 4 degrees of retard for the 75 shot, but pretty much everyone runs it at 2-3 degrees of retard...the retard is from the stock timing. I was running 4, but never got a chance to bring it up because my bottle got stolen. I would start at 4 degrees, put in new plugs and make a full pass on the juice....then shut the car off and check the plugs and see how they look. If they are good, put in another degree of timing, make another run, and check again. If you notice any signs of white specks on the electrode, retard it a degree and do it again. I know people running stock timing on a 75 shot and are fine, but every car is different. Yes you are right, spraying under 3000 rpm is not good, and you DO NOT want to hit the rev limiter. The rev limiter cuts fuel, but you are still at WOT so the nitrous is still spraying in. Lots of air and no fuel = kaboom. Don't spray for more than 15 seconds a run, and let the car cool a little before spraying again...nitrous produces very high cylinder temperatures. You'll also need a nitrous pressure gauge to monitor the pressure of the nitrous inside the bottle. Optimum pressure is 900-1050...higher the pressure, faster you go. I sprayed at 1100 once, the kick was great .

HTH