My car stopped!!! It would not even turn on because the clutch is out. I guess the clutch defeat contraption is stopping the car from starting since the clutch won't engage.

I finally got the clutch master cylinder out, after squirting myself in the face with brake fluid! It looks fine and i can push the little plunger in and it springs back out. Does that mean it's good? Cause it would not activate the clutch.

I'm gonna replace it anyway, just to make sure it really is the clutch that's acting up. Cause i'd rather pay 80 bux for the Master Cylinder thatn 400 for a clutch job. Cause if it's the master cylinder i'd be pissed if i replaced the clutch and it still would'nt run!

 

are you sure its not just the relay on the clutch? ie, there is a "switch" that the clutch activates in order to start the car.

 

the problem shouldnt be that the clutch is engaging.. rather it should be that the clutch isnt disengaging.
you should be checking the slave cylinder not the master cylinder. unbolt the two screws taht hold it on, then have someone hit the clutch, see if it pushes the pushrod out. if it doesnt then you know your problem lies somewhere in between the slave cylinder and clutch pedal.

 

The clutch safety switch only requires you to push the pedal down. In case of a clutch faliure, the car will still start in neutral.

The piston in the master cylinder is spring loaded... it will always pop back out if you push it in unless the sping is snapped (extremely rare.)

It's too late to function check it since you already ripped it apart.

It is wise to replace the master and slave cylinders at the same time. Replacing only the master often causes the old slave to blow.

 

.... evan if you replace the old master with another used master?

 

sorry, that's not true. in all cars nowadays, there is a relay wired up to the clutch that prevents the car from starting if the clutch is not depressed regardless of what gear it is in.

if that relay isn't functioning properly, you won't be able to start the car. it's as simple as that.

 

dont replace it with used, not worth it... And For everyones info the spring in the master cylender does wear out. I have proof... I bought a new larger diameter for 60$ online, and its Nissin, which is the stock brand that was on my car. Befor you remove the lines from the master cylender, you are suposed to bleed the presure off by opening the bleeder valve.... Thats why you got sprayed. How many miles are on your car and clutch?

(Somthing to keep in mind):
I duno, its just one of thoes weird things I do with my cars, but when I replace a major part, like a brake master cylender, or a clutch master cylender, I replace the rubber pedal cover, I do this because alot of people look at the brake and clutch pedal when buying a car (if its really worn than you can tell somone was always on the brakes or the clutch may need replacing)... Somthin to help you out in your search for a used master cylender or brake parts is to check the pedal pad....

 

Nice point. When I do get a new car, if I ever do, one of the first things I'm gonna do is remove and store the factory mats so they stay brand new. Can anyone think of anything else that it would be nice to have as buying incentives.?

 

OK, you didn't understand what I said.

The clutch safety switch is located on a bracket above the clutch pedal and must be released or depressed, depending on car model and manufaturer, to start the car on late 80's and newer vehicles. That's a given.

What I'm saying is that with the clutch pedal pushed in, and the car in neutral, the car will start even if the clutch is not disengaging. If you where dim enough to start it in gear, the car will lurch forward and stall out.

Thus, his car should start even if he's having problems with the clutch, because it's the pedal that controls the ignition lock-out.

Follow?

 

dude... how hard is it to understand that the RELAY COULD BE THE PROBLEM?!??!

DO YOU FOLLOW?

Edit: Maybe I should explain some more... You have an electrical circuit with a switch, a relay, and a light bulb. The switch pulls in the relay when it is depressed thereby completing the circuit and lighting the lightbulb. Now, the light bulb is not lighting when the switch is pressed.... Now, what could the problem be? There are THREE components in this circuit, the problem could be from ANY ONE OF THOSE COMPONENTS INCLUDING THE RELAY. If the relay is broken it WILL NOT COMPLETE THE CIRCUIT and the light bulb will not light. OR, the switch could be broken which means the circuit is not complete and the light bulb will not light. The lightbulb could be fine.

follow?

3rdgenlxi, when you try to start your car do you hear the starter?